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Author Sub cutting out at high volume??
Makarus
Member

Registered: 25th Jun 02
Location: Nottingham/Derbyshire Boarder.
User status: Offline
21st Sep 04 at 11:14   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote



Gonna go play with my sub levels and stuff at dinner, annoy everyone in my office with the bass, lol. Hopefully be able to sort the problem as its starting to really piss me off.
Scotty_B
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Registered: 11th Jun 03
Location: East Kilbride
User status: Offline
21st Sep 04 at 14:45   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

If all else fails take to a pro audio fitter and get them to rip it all out and start again. This is what i did and have had no problams since. They charged me £100 though.
MoNkEy MaGiC
Member

Registered: 12th Apr 03
Location: West - London Drives: Corsa GSi
User status: Offline
21st Sep 04 at 16:10   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

i had a probem yesterday with my sub cutting out if volume past level 4!!!!!!

prior to all this i had taken my head unit out and disconnected the battery, once all connected up the sub kept cutting out and then just stopped working!!! turned out the fuse in the engine bay was bit loose so replaced that and started working again

my advice use very think power cables mate! i replaced my headunit cable while it was out and Oh My God! what a difference!
it says it needed a 20amp cable, i used a 30amp cable! and now i can easily pump it past volume level 20 without the lights flickering on headunit at all! and thats with the engine NOT running!!!
Makarus
Member

Registered: 25th Jun 02
Location: Nottingham/Derbyshire Boarder.
User status: Offline
21st Sep 04 at 18:54   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Nice one mate.

I have a big 4 gauge cable coming into the car, then into a distribution block. Then got 2 4 gauge cables coming out. One to headunit and one to amp. The amp wiring is fine, I know I haven't buggered it there. The wiring for the headunit should also be fine as I did it myself and did a good job. Pretty certain the wiring is not to blame.

Gonna recheck every fuse in a minute, have another play with it. I have got it to cope with more volume now but thats by turning the gains down on the amp, I checked the amp again and no lights coming on.

I have tried adjusting the bass level on the headunit and the higher it goes it starts to cut out again, but still no protection light.

Would the thickness of the remote cable have any bearing on the problem??
What would the protection light signify anyway?? Just incase it isn't working so I can try and take that problem out of the equation too.

Have tried moving the amp around a lot to see if its a dodgy connection but it doesn't affect it.

My lights flicker a little when running high bass, but dont see how with the cabling I gave it, 30amp to the amp and 30amp to the headunit. Ground is a power cable ran from the amp all the way back to the neg (-) on the battery, so should be a nice connection.
Dom
Member

Registered: 13th Sep 03
User status: Offline
21st Sep 04 at 22:47   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

borrow someone else HU,amp or sub (or all three if pos) and see if any of the parts a fubar'd.
Although i would have wired the HU to the battery terminal directly and same as with the amp cable (no real need for a dissy block tbh). Also, doesnt the ground from the HU have to be the same sort of cabling?

Although i think everyone is running out of ideas mate, so it might be worth taking it to your local ICE dealers and see what they suggest or see if they can test/reinstall the whole lot.

btw, you should really have to turn up any bass/treble/mid on your HU, should really keep it all flat on the HU, apart from maybe a little filter on the front/backs (cut 100Hz down etc)
Makarus
Member

Registered: 25th Jun 02
Location: Nottingham/Derbyshire Boarder.
User status: Offline
21st Sep 04 at 23:43   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Cheers for the help peeps, it seems like an impossible task to fix.

Gonna test it with different subs/amps/headunit and see if I can pin point it. Getting really pissed off with it now.

I wanted the dissy block to try and keep the cabling tidy. One cable from battery for the system instead of a new one each time. I am getting more amps to run the components and 6x9s, then later getting 2 mono blocks to replace the job of the single 4 channel at the moment to power 2 new subs. So the dissy block made sense for the future, but saying that looking at it now I will probably be getting fused distribution because of the amount I will have in the boot, plus new battery because the airbag suspension will be drawing a lot from the main battery.

[Edited on 21-09-2004 by Makarus]

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