rayyau
Member
Registered: 4th Aug 04
User status: Offline
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what are all the bits to look at when doing this because before i add anything that increases power or rev limit i want everything as solid as possible?
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Robin
Premium Member
Registered: 7th Jan 04
Location: Northants Drives: Clio 182 Cup
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depends on the budget.
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Stu
Member
Registered: 3rd May 00
Location: Madchester UK Drives: 2014 BMW M135i
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Bit vague really, what are your plans?
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rayyau
Member
Registered: 4th Aug 04
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eventually throttle bodies, cams, rev limiter raised. does getting the bottom end lightened affect it's durability?
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Robin
Premium Member
Registered: 7th Jan 04
Location: Northants Drives: Clio 182 Cup
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what engine?
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rayyau
Member
Registered: 4th Aug 04
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c16 xe
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Stu
Member
Registered: 3rd May 00
Location: Madchester UK Drives: 2014 BMW M135i
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Again depends how far your taking it, I would def say uprated big end bolts tho.
Getting the bottom end lightened is only something Id really consider quite far down the stages. gains are only slight, even more so in a mildly tuned engine.
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Robin
Premium Member
Registered: 7th Jan 04
Location: Northants Drives: Clio 182 Cup
User status: Offline
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right, well,
standard bottom end, with ARP conrod bolts is good for about 8500rpm (broster on here was running 9000rpm in his, with just ARP bolts, and a balanced crank)
but, if you want it to be stronger, steel rods from SBD or somewhere similar will be helpful, and forged pistons.
standard crank is good for something silly like 10,000rpm (if its balanced), and its VERY expensive to get an uprated one.
as for the head, big cams (anything above 264 degrees means pocketing the pistons), double valve springs, and a lot of porting and polishing mean big power.
brosters 9000rpm, 190bhp 1.6 lasted about a year on a pretty much standard bottom end.
basically, ARP bolts are all you need for a decent road spec (170bhp or so) as long as you dont have a silly rev limit.
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rayyau
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Registered: 4th Aug 04
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cheers for that
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broster
Premium Member
Registered: 6th Dec 02
Location: Drives: E39
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if its just for road fun then go for 8k limit really to be safe, 8.5 if you fancy a risk. if you want it on track then id consider getting a baffeled sump at minimum, after that its steel crank and dry sump, getting power up to 180 is cheap enough over 190 gets costly
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Dave A
USER UNDER INVESTIGATION - DO NOT TRADE
Registered: 10th Dec 03
Location: County Durham
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isnt the c16xe and x16xe sump already baffled?
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ed
Member
Registered: 10th Sep 03
User status: Offline
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Diesel bottom end 
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GTS-T Rob
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Registered: 20th Jul 05
Location: Cambridgeshire Drives: Skyline
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how much would it cost all in to buy the arp conrod bolts, fit them etc and then what ever it takes to get the raised rev limit to 8k?
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Dave A
USER UNDER INVESTIGATION - DO NOT TRADE
Registered: 10th Dec 03
Location: County Durham
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rod bolts are £50
SBD cam belt rollers are £80
fitting for both would be about £100-150 each
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GTS-T Rob
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Registered: 20th Jul 05
Location: Cambridgeshire Drives: Skyline
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then what about the raising of the rev limit
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Dave A
USER UNDER INVESTIGATION - DO NOT TRADE
Registered: 10th Dec 03
Location: County Durham
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depends on your ecu set-up and wether you need it or not.
I can raise my limit myself as I have fully mappable management. If you dont have this then it can cost between £250-500 to be raised by doing a remap.
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broster
Premium Member
Registered: 6th Dec 02
Location: Drives: E39
User status: Offline
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x16xe dont have a baffeled sump for deffo, not sure on c16xe, some say it has, not seen it myself tho.
why do you want an 8k rev limit first? thats alot of revs if you dont have big cams
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