TJ_KING
Member
Registered: 3rd Apr 02
Location: Brisbane/ Australia = Corsa B GSi
User status: Offline
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Pod (induction kit) and Panel air filters all have one thing in common; they filter the air. This is their main purpose in life. The difference between all filters is how restrictive the filter setup is. A standard engine intake setup is generally small and restrictive and here lies the key to power gains. Remember this equation when designing your intake setup.
Cold Air – restriction = POWER
From this you can see that the best intake system for power is no filter at all and a straight cold air pipe. This means the engine has no restrictions at all, however, it is also sucking dirt and muck all through the engine so this should never be done. The next best thing is to put as little restriction between the cold air and the throttle body. This can be done two ways.
POD Filter: In reality Pod’s are all much of a muchness. You will only ever notice 0.5-1.5 HP difference between the range on offer. You are best to find a washable element such as a K&N to extend filter life and save you money. If you install a Pod you need to consider your cold air source this can be achieved two ways.
1. Simply connect a longer inlet pipe off the standard and mount the Pod further down in the bumper. Be careful not to go too low as you may suck up some water and dirt in the rain, decreasing your filter life.
2. Make a shroud or closed box for the Pod to sit in. For the box connect a pipe directly to it so cold air is sucked in. Simply placing a large pipe from the front bumper/grill will not push air onto the pod (even when moving fairly fast!!!) and the pod will not suck through-it! If you make a shroud simple make sure the Pod is protected from direct heat transfer and that it once again has a cold air source.
Panel Filter: These are the easiest way to lessen the restriction of the airflow as they simply replace the standard filter. On a Corsa B there are also a few mods you can make in increase flow potential and increase noise for the wow factor.
1. Firstly you need to cut the restrictor pipe off the inside of the lid. (Think about this; why do they have a pipe 0.5” pipe when the inlet pipe is 1.5” across!) *****
2. Next off take out the bend pipe inside the middle of the air box. Should just pull out as it simply slides into the front air hole of the box. (This will increase noise as it makes the air box larger inside and creates a resonating effect to magnify the induction roar)
3. Drill a 1” – 2” hole in the bottom right hand corner of the air box. From this connect a similar sized pipe and run this down to the bumper. (This creates a throbby style induction noise, I have been told my GSi sounds like a worked WRX on many occasions) The extra pipe is not entirely necessary, simple guarantees a cold air supply.
4. Make sure you have the standard cold air pipe to the front grill. With the extra hole it will flow enough air for the engine. But just in case sand down the inside of the pipe (where you can) to smooth out and increase the airflow. Also make sure it is bolted down correctly and is sucking cold air.
5. This is just my view of how to increase flow on the standard air box. There are many other versions, however, I have this setup and it works great by freeing the engine at high revs and also increases throttle response and power.
*****Note this will drop RPM very slightly as the air is moving marginally slower at idle.
In summary you are not going to gain huge HP in a filter change. The idea is to lessen airflow restriction while feeding the engine with cold air.
[Edited on 21-07-2009 by Ste W]
[Edited on 21-07-2009 by Ste W]
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Gambit
Member
Registered: 5th Jun 00
Location: Common Sense HQ
User status: Offline
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HOW TO RESET THE ECU!
just need to disconnect the battery for more than 60mins to allow the backup memory to be wiped.
re-connect and start your start your car.
it will splutter & cough for about 10 seconds while it re-calibrates itself.
do not rev it during these 10sec
it will then settle itself and idle nicely and thats it sorted.
only problem is that u'll lose all ur pre-programmed radio stations!, and if its a vauxhall radio make sure you have the keycode but vauxhall can sort that out if you dont have the key code 
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Gambit
Member
Registered: 5th Jun 00
Location: Common Sense HQ
User status: Offline
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u car should idle at 800rpm +/- 50rpm
reset the ECU and also clean the idle control valve, and see if that sorts it out
use carb cleaner to clean the valve
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Rob H
Member
Registered: 28th Oct 00
Location: Staffordshire Drives: Astra SRi
User status: Offline
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Just to add to whats already been said:
You can also buy Cone/Pod filters that have a heat sheilding around the actuall filter. These have the advantages of the larger suface are of the cone/pod filters, but also have the advantage of not sucking in hot air from the engine bay, due to the cold air ducting supplied with it. This type of filter is also best for using Ram induction.
Ram induction: The combination of air channels and vehicle speed to force more air into the engine. This is often used in motorsport where only Natural aspiration is allowed in the rulebook. A large area of a grille, say for instance the whole of the top grille on a corsa, has a box behind it which catches all the air that enters throught the grille, and redirects it into the air filter. The benifits of this are that theoretically, at high speeds air will be forced into the engine, rather than sucked in, and therefore creates the same affect as a turbo. Although Ram air only really comes into effect at high speeds, it will still provide cooler air to the engine at lower speeds.... plus it looks really mint, and is something to talk about down the pub to your mates 
Anyway, some pictures of examples of cone/pod filters 
Pipercross Viper cone
Boxed Cone/Pod filter
Open Cone/Pod filter
[Edited on 21-07-2009 by Ste W]
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Wolf In Welsh Clothing
Member
Registered: 31st Mar 03
Location: North Wales...... Cooper S on order
User status: Offline
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Here's a pic of me green twister induction kit.
Costs-
Filter £90
Demon Tweeks part number (in red) GRETW65R £75.32+vat
Samco hose £25
Demon Tweeks part number (in blue) SAME45-60 £20.76+vat
Connecting pipe £10
Demon Tweeks part number (alluminium) GLOHI60 £10.17+vat
Cold Air Feed £20
Demon Tweeks part number (in red/brown) SAMSFD-082 £21.09+vat per metre
(may of been slightly more as i think i had less then a metre so got it cheaper)
Jubilee Clips £5
2x 50-70mm (from local parts shop), 1x 77-95mm Demon Tweeks part number S/C115095 £4.35+vat
Ive just added the part numbers off my reciepts should any1 wanna buy one.
[Edited on 21-07-2009 by Ste W]
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