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Author Honda Fan Boys---- talk to me
Eck
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Registered: 17th Apr 06
Location: Lundin Links, Fife
User status: Offline
24th Sep 11 at 18:27   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by corsadonk
I paid 3k for a standard DC2 with slightly rough bodywork, your right they're pretty slow but it's the way it handles I love, no good for you, but it's great on country roads it really soaks up the bumps with the standard suspension. The diff is very mild compaired to the Quaife I had in my Corsa.

The DC2 is meant to be the purest drivers car. Also the UKDM Integra is cheaper than the JDM one pictured.
But they are also slower. 187bhp against 197bhp. Don't think it'll have the FD of the 98 spec JDM either?

EK9 Type R - B16B - Basically a B18, due to being a strong engine. 185bhp as standard. Excellent cars. Probably the fastest to 60 But then I think the DC5 would be quicker overall. They aren't as easy as the Teg to get power from. More expensive than a DC2 as well!

Integra Type R - This is complicated, as you have the UKDM (187 bhp), the JDM 96 Spec, and the JDM 98 spec. The 98 spec with B18c6 is the best of the lot. Off the top of my head, it has bigger wheels (deemed the best set up), bigger brakes, stiffer suspension (only on the front iirc), a better manifold (one of the best actually. It costs a lot of money to do better. It's a mod normally found on the EK9 to have the 2.5" 4-1 from a 98 spec), and a higher FD. 4.75 (or very close) against the standard 4.4. Closer first, second and third, longer fourth and fifth. Against the EK9, they are quite easy to get power from. But not as easy as other manufacturers. 210bhp can be had without cams etc. But you can get a set of stage 2 cams, and bolt them straight in with no fuss. Should not alter the idle at all.

DC5 is obviously the most expensive, but still quite a bargain at £8k They are bigger, but not much heavier. Only about 70kg's in it! They use the K20A, and make 210-215ish bhp. The DC2 was called the best drivers' fwd car, until the DC5 There really is no comparison with any of the other two. The DC2 and EK9 will be a much rawer experience, but the DC5 will be the fastest. 240bhp isn't too difficult to achieve. There are a couple of CTR's on here running that power with the K20 without too much effort. It's the obvious one to go for, but then again it's twice the price of both the others

Personally, I'd get a 96 spec JDM Teggy. If you can find a 98 spec, then great! But they aren't very cheap. I'd get that, and bolt on a Supercharger There's a 'charger that will bolt directly on, that comes with the management etc on Pistonheads right now that would take you straight to 300bhp in one of the best fwd chassis ever built
Eck
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Registered: 17th Apr 06
Location: Lundin Links, Fife
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24th Sep 11 at 18:28   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by DannyB
According to what Eck told me last week the UK DC2 doesn't have a diff, the JDM version does.




I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think they do! I know the JDM S80's do though.
Eck
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Registered: 17th Apr 06
Location: Lundin Links, Fife
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24th Sep 11 at 18:32   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Obviously been confirmed now that they do Knew the MB6's had them but wasn't sure about the Teg. I'd 100% go for the JDM DC2. MJ, the limiter was lower as well.
MJ
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Registered: 18th Sep 03
Location: Hampshire Drives: ITR DC2 + Skoda Felicia
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24th Sep 11 at 18:41   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

This is everything you need to know about a DC2

1995-1997 JDM

Max Power: 200ps @ 7900rpm
Max Torque: 134lb ft @ 7200rpm
Length/width/height: 4400/1705/1320mm
Weight: 1060kg
Max Speed: 145mph
0-60mph: 6.2 seconds

1998-2001 JDM

Max Power: 200ps @ 7900rpm
Max Torque: 137lb ft @ 6200rpm
Length/width/height: 4400/1705/1335mm
Weight: 1100kg
Max Speed: 145mph
0-60mph: 6.2 seconds

1998-2001 UKDM

Max Power: 187bhp @ 7900rpm
Max Torque: 131lb ft @ 7200rpm
Length/width/height: 4400/1705/1335mm
Weight: 1140kg
Max Speed: 145mph
0-60mph: 6.5 seconds

------------------------------------------------

wheels

96 - 4*114.3 - 15
98 - 5*114.3 - 16
uk - 5*114.3 - 15

JDM has no immobiliser but has a much nicer key
JDM has no rear wiper (std on 96 and delete option on 9Cool
JDM has light plastic spare wheel cover, UKDM has wooden one
JDM, the bar which nobody seems to know what its for is lighter
JDM 98 has red stitched gear lever boot, 96 doesnt, dunno bout UK
JDM 98 has fake carbon passenger window switch
96, 98, and UK all have different rear bumpers
JDM have completely different (nicer) front end
UK recaro colour is determined by exterior colour
JDM 98 available in yellow and silver
JDM have less underseal from the factory
JDM engine code b18c as opposed to b18c6
JDM has auto window up down feature
JDM has indicator stalk on RHS
96 has no 'badge', UK is numbered, 98 says '98 spec r'
JDM has seatbelt warning light
UK has petrol cap holder???? i think
JDM has different coloured tint to glass
UK and JDM have different speedo units

-----------------------------------------------------


.......96Spec........98Spec
1st....3.230.........3.230
2nd...2.105.........2.105
3rd...1.485.........1.485
4th...1.107.........1.034
5th...0.848.........0.787
F/D...4.400.........4.785


------------------------------------------------------

98 Spec JDM V's 96 Spec JDM (Taken from Type R Legends DVD)


I have listed the differences between the 96-98 Spec JDM ITR's below, as taken from BMI's Type R Legends DVD. As you can see it is quite long so you may not want to read it all. Please bare in mind that this is Japanese translated into American, I have changed some of the more obvious facts into UK English and that it is BMI information not mine, so if you don't agree with the facts complain to them.... Razz

This list does not include all the Track Battles and extras on the ITR that are on the DVD so I recommend a purchase!!! Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

1. HID lights on 98 Spec (added weight, but improved night visibility)

2. The most siginficant change are the wheels

96 Spec 195/55/15 4 stud

98 Spec 215/45/16 5 stud (rare tyres....)

3. Brake Discs enlarged

96 spec Front 14" Rear 13"

98 spec Front 15" Rear 14" (I don't know if this is correct as I thought these were mean't to be the same as the UK spec fronts, but the UK spec wheels are only 15")

4. Front Suspension - Modified to increase cornering speeds after extensive testing on the circuit.

96 Spec

Spring rate (KGf/MM) 4.4
Damper (KGf) (Full) 245
(short) 161
Anti Roll Bar (inches) 0.94

98 Spec

Spring rate (KGf/MM) 4.5
Damper (KGf) (Full) 231
(short) 142
Anti Roll Bar (inches) 0.98

5. Rear Suspension

96 Spec

Spring rate (KGf/MM) 4.4
Damper (KGf) (Full) 118
(short) 70
Anti Roll Bar (inches) 0.87

98 Spec

Spring rate (KGf/MM) 4.5
Damper (KGf) (Full) 100
(short) 59
Anti Roll Bar (inches) 0.91

This seems to indicate that Honda decided to increase the stiffnes of the spring slightly but decrease the dampening of the shocks. Also the anti roll bars were thickened. Perhaps someone who knows more about this can explain..... Wink

6. The 98 spec engine was equiped with an all stainless steel manifold giving the engine more torque at lower revs.

96 Spec - 200 ps @ 8000 rpm
18.5kgm @ 7200 rpm

98 Spec - 200 ps @ 8000 rpm
19kgm @ 6200 rpm

7. Other Specs

96 Spec
Height (inches) 52
Rear Track (inches) 57.9
Weight 1060kgs
ABS Option
Airbag Option

98 Spec
Height (inches) 52.4
Rear Track (inches) 58.5
Weight 1100kgs
ABS Standard
Airbag Standard

8. Engine Internals (Enlargement of the thrust bearings, Ports, and Valve Seals) were machined by hand until late 96 spec engines. When it came to improving this process further it took to long by hand, so the engineers were replaced by machines.......

Late 96 spec and 98 spec engine internals were machined by specialist machines that produced work that was so good it was impossible to match by hand.....

9. Quarter mile race between the two models with gearbox ratios as described above.... Very Happy

Gear Ratios

96 Spec

1st - 3.230
2nd - 2.105
3rd - 1.458
4th - 1.107
5th - 0.848

Final 4.4


98 spec

1st - 3.230
2nd - 2.105
3rd - 1.458
4th - 1.034
5th - 0.787

Final 4.785

This all means that 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear are shorter in the 98 Spec (due to the closer ration of the Final drive), but 4th and 5th are wider for top speed...... (i.e. 4th and 5th in the 96 Spec are closer for acceleration, which is why the 96 Spec pull the 98 Spec back in 4th gear in the 1/4 mile)

10. Braking test from about 95 mph

96 Spec (non ABS) - 269.7 ft

98 Spec (ABS and larger discs) - 230.3 ft Shocked


11. Circuit Battle (in postion order with lap times)

1. 98 Spec Integra - 1.09.16
2. MR2 G liimted (200ps non turbo) - 1.09.57
3. Celica (T-Sport?) - 1.09.65
4. FTO (Version R?) - 1.10.14
5. Miata - 1.13.45
6. BMW Z3 - 1.13.94

Driver comments - It a stable ride.... There is only a slight improvement in quickness, but the brakes and tires really contribute to the stable lap times.....Its a driver friendly car.... I guess the gear ration has some demerits at top acceleration.... but the 1st 2nd and 3rd gears match the circuit. (1st 2nd and 3rd are shorter on the 98 spec, but 4th and 5th are wider for top speed....) The new ITR (98 spec) is a fine car.....

The ITR is great for low and mid speed courses.... older ITR's had problems with the 1st and 2nd hairpins you couldn't rev the engine enogh for those corners.... but now the second gear is a perfect match


12 Endurance race

The 96 Spec ITR is raced (earlier on) in the Endurance race and it wins on lap consistancy.

The 98 spec ITR is raced in the endurance race (not sure who won this one), the oil temp goes through the roof.... cut to Spoon who say when their cars are on track they use Stock Honda Logo oil filters which fit but are smaller and prevent oil pressure fluctuation (preventing warping of the oil filter case). They also put baffles in the sump and heat tape between the exhaust manifold and the sump to further prevent the oil pressure fluctuating. They also use steel gaskets and steel banding around their oil filters on their racing cars....


Spoon then go on to suggest that if youre driving a 96 Spec ITR with over 60,000 miles (on track I presume) when rebuilding the engine also change the raer suspension arm to a 98 spec (or 2000 spec) version for a milder ride and easier handling. All bushes are compatible between 96 spec, 98 spec and 2000 spec so go for the latest you can get.... before making major mods Spoon recomend changing these small parts to enjoy the circuit more first....



13. 2000 spec ITR differences (I don't think there is a 2000 spec ITR as such but its just that Honda was alway making fine adjustments upto the end of the production run.... similar to say the S2000 production run....)

The drive shafts, hubs and bearing have all been syncronised (machined!?!) for better movement, which is the kind of precision work Honda have been doing for the past year or so... (The DVD came out in 2001)

----------------------------------------------------------------


96 spec discs are 262mm
98 spec discs are 282mm

-----------------------------------------------------------------

The UK Gear ratios are in the broucher, they are the same as JDM98 ratios.

Official Weights of JDM98 are
http://www.honda.co.jp/HOT/ModelData/integra/95itr-k-508a/grade_data/index.html

Base Model = 1,080 kg

+ABS = 1,090 kg

+ABS+SRS air bag = 1,100 kg

+air con+ABS+SRS air bag = 1,120 kg


UK Official Weights

1,110 kg

------------------------------------------------------------------


UKDM or EUDM or JDM compression ratio - 11.1:1 (catalogue figure - 11:1)
USDM compression ratio - 10.6:1

Differece is on the piston dome displacement.

P73-A0 pistons for US and P73-00 pistons for the rest of the world.


-------------------------------------------------------------------

UK Honda workshop manual states:
Section 3.9, Design Specifications, Kerb Weight 1120kg, w/SRS 1130kg-

-------------------------------------------------------------------

JDM DC2:

Vehicle Weight: 1060Kg
ABS Equipped: 1070Kg
SRS Airbag Equipped: 1070Kg
ABS + SRS Equipped: 1080Kg
Air Conditioner will add a further 20Kgs...

My '96 4 door DB8 Type R starts at 1100Kgs and I only have air con = 1120Kgs! the 98 equivalent weighed in at 1160Kgs with everything fitted.

---------------------------------------------------------------------

Bearings and hubs were different:

96 JDM - smaller front and smaller rear bearings (4 stud hubs)
98 JDM - larger front and larger rear bearings (5 stud hubs)
UK/Euro/US - smaller front and larger rear bearings (5 stud hubs)

The bearings have a significant influence on the camber rigidity of the whole corner assy.

Manifolds and cats were different:

96 JDM - 4:2:1, 4:2 part cast, 2:1 part fabricated with 65mm OD collector.
98 JDM - 4:1 one-piece fully fabricated with 65mm collector.
UK/Euro/US - 4:2:1 two-piece fully fabricated with 51mm OD collector.

JDM used shorter cat ~305mm, UK/Euro/US cat ~445mm.

From experience 96 JDM cars have different steering to UK cars too. The UK cars have variable resistance with torque and speed. 96 JDM steering is much lighter with less feed-back. Also brake pedal feel is completely different between these two models - down to more than disc size alone.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I dont know if this has been covered elsewhere but i spotted it on another site (in which the author also had itr-dc2.com as a link in his signature so maybe he found it here, but i dont know in what thread. Anyway its the differences in the Integra Si/GSR and the ITR. Its from a US site and so compares the GSR to the US ITR which didnt get recaros and had different wheels to the UK ITR but basic differences in structural parts and engine parts are the same for the Si-v-ITR (UK and JDM)

EDIT BY NEBPOR: NOTE THAT UK CAR HAS SAME COMPRESSION RATION AS JDM CARS, NOT USDM - ENGINE IS NOT THE SAME BETWEEN UK AND USA

EXTERIOR/BODY
1)Spoilers - The Front and Rear spoilers were developed in an air dome test. The
front and the rear spoilers are pefectly balanced with one another creating the
same amount of lift.
2)Tires - BS Potenza RE010 195/55R 15"
3)Front - Side Frame Tip
4)Rear - Frame Back Tip

5)Stiffer Front Strut Tower Brace
6)Rear Lower Tie Rod End Bar
7)Removal of rear carpeting and lining
8)Five Lug Wheels
9)No Sun Roof
10)Type R specific badging
11)Type R Red 'A' emblems
12)Increased Wheelhouse thickness
13)Thicker Rear Pillar Upper Girdle
14)Thicker Roof Rail Upper
15)Thicker Rear Damper Gusset
16)Thicker Rear Lower Arm Bracket
17)Thicker Rear Wheel Arch
18)Third Brake Light
19)Absence of rear wiper

INTERIOR
1)Different Tach.
2)Carbon Fiber Gauge Bezel
3)Type R shift boot
4)Type R shift knob
5)Type R seats with bigger and more supportive bolstering - Semi Bucket
6)Type R plaque
7)No willy wanging in a car park Control
CoolA/C Optional
9)Black w/ red stitching theme on knob, front and rear seats.
10)Different cloth used for seats and door panels


ENGINE There are a total of 60 different parts in the Type R
1)195hp @8000rpm----------------------------------------(GS-R - 170ph @7600rpm)
2)130lbs-ft @7500rpm-------------------------------------(128lbs-ft @6200rpm)
3)8400rpm Redline---------------------------------------- (GS-R - 8100rpm)
4)8500rpm fuel cut-off-------------------------------------(GS-R - 8200rpm)
5)B18C5 - engine code------------------------------------(GS-R - B18C1)
6)1797cc----------------------------------------------------(GS-R - 1797cc)
7)Compression - 10.6:1-----------------------------------(GS-R - 10.0:1
8)Port Buffed Head-----------------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
9)Port Buffed Valve Seats---------------------------------GS-R - N/A)
10)Conrod Bolts fastened using a Micrometer------------(GS-R - N/A)
11)Air Intake Diameter - 70mm----------------------------(GS-R - 65mm)
12)Throttle Body Diameter - 62mm------------------------GS-R - 60mm)
13)Valve Seat Opening Angle - 45 deg.--------------------(GS-R - 60 deg.)
14)Air Intake - Straighter----------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
15)Relocation of air intake to inside the fender----------(GS-R - Same)
16)Exhaust Pipe Diameter - 57.2mm---------------------(GS-R - 50.8mm)
17)Tailpipe Diameter - 76mm-----------------------------(GS-R - 50.8mm)
18)Modified Exhaust Pipe----------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
19)Enlarged Silencer---------------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
20)100% Stainless Steel Exhaust System----------------(GS-R - N/A)
21)Bigger Valves--------------------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
22)Light Weight Inlet Valves-------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
23)High Lift Dual Valve Springs----------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
24)Totally Different Cam Profiles
---Intake: 11.5mm-----------------------------------------(GS-R - 10.6mm)
---Exhaust: 10.5mm---------------------------------------(GS-R - 9.4mm)
25)Intake Opening Timing Increased
---15 deg. before TDC------------------------------------(GS-R - 10 deg.)
26)Intake Closing Timing Increased
---45 deg. before BDC------------------------------------(GS-R - 40 deg.)
27)Exhaust Opening Timing Increased
---45 deg. before BDC------------------------------------(GS-R - 40 deg.)
28)Exhaust Closing Timing Increased
---10 deg. before TDC-------------------------------------(GS-R - 7 deg.)
29)Lower Friction Pistons ---------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
30)Specially made Conrod bolts--------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
31)Molybdenum Coated Piston Skirts---------------------(GS-R - N/A)
32)Light Weight Piston Skirts------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
33)Increased Side Molds on pistons-----------------------(GS-R - N/A)
34)Light Weight Reinforced Piston Rods-------------------(GS-R - N/A)
35)Fully Balanced 8 Weight Crank Shaft------------------(GS-R - N/A)
---Weights were added to #1 & #4
36)New Adjustable Connectors on Crank Shaft----------(GS-R - N/A)
37)Fully Balanced Crank Shaft-----------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
38)Connecting Rods Mirror Polished-----------------------(GS-R - N/A)
39)Valve Shaft Diameter Decreased - 4.6mm------------(GS-R - 5.5mm)
---12% Lighter
40)Injectors on bottom of pistons--------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
----Prevents "burned-in" pistons
41)Single Port Intake Manifold-----------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
42)NGK High Spark #7 Platinum Plugs--------------------(GS-R - N/A)
43)Hand Ported A-Pipe--------------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
44)Smaller Battery------------------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
45)Aluminum Radiator--------------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
46)Honda Red Valve Cover---------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
47)Transmission Stiffener Brace---------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
48)Fuel Rail Stay---------------------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)

PERFORMANCE & MISC.
1/4 Mile Time: 14.746 Type R----------------1/4 Mile Time: 15.3 GS-R

Type R Gear Ratios (pre 98')----------------GS-R Gear Ratios
1st. 3.230------------------------------------1st. 3.230
2nd. 2.105------------------------------------2nd. 1.900
3rd. 1.458-------------------------------------3rd. 1.360
4th. 1.107-------------------------------------4th. 1.034
5th. 0.848-------------------------------------5th. 0.787
FINAL: 4.400-----------------------------------FINAL: 4.400


**Suspension Rates**
----------------------------------Type R----------------------GS-R
FRONT:
spring rates:-------------------4.4kg/mm------------------3.8kg/mm
damper:-----------------------245kg full-------------------144kg full
---------------------------------161kg short-----------------75kg short
stabilizer(inches)-------------0.95--------------------------0.95

REAR:
spring rates:------------------2.5-4.4kg/mm--------------2.0kg/mm
------------------------(Progressive Spring Rate)
damper:-----------------------118kg full-------------------90kg full
----------------------------------70kg full---------------------42kg full
stabilizer(mm)-----------------22mm------------------------13mm

Damper Mnt. Bushing:---------370kgf/mm---------------70kgf/mm


Corner Weight Measurement: Left & Right Differences
---------------------------------Type R-----------------------GS-R
---Weight: Front:--------------19.8--------------------------17.6
---(lbs.) Rear:----------------52.9--------------------------41.9
---Height: Front:---------------0.04--------------------------0.12
---(inches) Rear:---------------0-----------------------------0.04
---BALANCE:------------------63:37------------------------64:36

BRAKES:-----------------------Type R-----------------------GS-R
--Front:-------------------------282mm-------------------- 262mm
--Rear:------------------------- 262mm---------------------242mm

HEIGHT:-----------------------50.2 inches-------------------?????
REAR TRACK:-----------------57.9 inches-------------------?????
WEIGHT:-----------------------2639lbs---------------------?????

BRAKING (100mph - 0)------269.7ft.-----------------------?????


MASS GAIN - COMPAIRED TO GS-R
**If you want these numbers in lbs. simply times the kg by 2.2**

Stiffer Suspension/High-grip--------------------------------+5.500kg
LSD-----------------------------------------------------------+1.500kg
Performance Rod & Aluminum Make-----------------------+3.440kg
Body Stiffening Metal Sheets-------------------------------+1.711kg
Strengthening Wheel Bolts & Bearings---------------------+0.704kg
Strengthening Tailgate Area--------------------------------+0.313kg
Stiffer Rubber Exhaust Piping Mounts ---------------------+0.140kg
Front Spoiler--------------------------------------------------+1.034kg
Rear Spoiler--------------------------------------------------+2.900kg
Miscellaneous-------------------------------------------------+1.160kg

Total Increase:-----------------------------------------------+19.449kg


MASS DECREASE - COMPAIRED TO GSR
Lighten Flywheel'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' '''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''-0.750kg
Lighter Engine, Exhaust Pipings''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' ''''-3.329kg
Aluminum Radiator'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' ''''''''''''''''''''''''''''-1.350kg
Compact Battery''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' '''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''-3.000kg
Lighter Aluminum Wheels'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' ''''''''''''''-5.200kg
Floor Sheetmetal Removed''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' ''''''''''''-10.665kg
Dashboard Insulator Removed''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' '''''-3.869kg
Fuel Tank Wave Absorber Removed''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''-0.450kg
Floor Heat Panel Removed''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' '''''''''''''-0.272kg
Resin Spare Tire Lid''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' '''''''''''''''''''''-0.997kg
Aluminum Left-Side "Stopper Bracket"'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''-1.300kg
Rear Wiper Removal''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' ''''''''''''''''''''''''-1.851kg
Air Conditioner Removal (optional)'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''-18.700kg
Miscellaneous''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' '''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''-6.919kg

Total Decrease'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' ''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''-58.317kg
gavin18787
Premium Member

Avatar

Registered: 22nd Feb 05
Location: Basildon, Essex
User status: Offline
24th Sep 11 at 19:03   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Numbers







This is a good spec, lose the ugly bonnet and

[quote="lockwood77"]2001 (Y) DC5 Honda Integra Type-R
Price: £8400 (optional extras available – see below)
Nighthawk Black with black interior
Not a C Pack, but has parcel shelf
78,000 miles (speedo converted on import and mileage converted)
Cat 1 alarm and additional security
Pioneer Bluetooth head unit with microphone installed
Fog light in rear cluster
MOT 9th March, Tax end November
Undersealed
Just had oil change and new NGK Iridium plugs at 77k
Serviced every 4500 with new HAMP filter and Silkolene Pro S 5w40
Always run on Optimax
Third owner in the UK (original importer, first owner, then me), I have owned it since June 2006 when it had ~20k miles


Modifications



  • KPro ECU mapped to 253bhp/174 lb/ft by TDI North
  • GruppeM intake with SFS hose
  • J’s Racing 70mm throttle body
  • RBC intake manifold
  • Toda manifold and full exhaust
  • ESMM engine mounts
  • Earthing kit




  • Tein Type Flex coilovers
  • Buddy Club roll centre adjusters
  • Race DNA sub-frame castor adjustment
  • Eibach rear camber arms and front camber bolts
  • Geometry setup by Race DNA
  • Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 wheels in black, Goodyear F1 Asymmetric tyres (version 2 on rears), 3-4mm front, 6-7mm rear
  • Goodridge braided brake hoses




  • TGM baffled sump
  • Oil temperature, oil pressure and clock gauges in DIN plate
  • J’s Racing front tow hook
  • Clear side repeaters


Original full exhaust, airbox and intake manifold also come with the car.

Please see below for additional optional modifications (currently on the car). I will consider replacing parts with standard items (and reducing the price) according to the buyer's preference, if required.


Service History

Basic fluid changes undertaken by me, including oil changes every 4500 miles. Brake fluid changed in June, using Castrol SRF (this will never fade on track! £40 per bottle).

Front end resprayed in June, including brand new Honda badge, due to significant stonechipping.

New rear pads fitted at 73k miles. Front Mintex 1144 pads have plenty of life left too.

New wheel nuts fitted May 2011 due to Ultralite nuts disintegrating (never buy these!)

New windscreen fitted due to stonechip crack in October 2010.

New Honda OEM front and rear wishbone bushes, front hubs and clutch at 60k miles (March 2010) courtesy of Race DNA. Bushes were perishing and bearings were worn in the hubs, hence the change. Gearbox was out due to sub-frame update, so had the clutch changed as a matter of course although it showed no signs of wearing out. Naturally the gearbox oil was changed for Honda MTF II at the same time. This was also when the Tein coilovers were fitted (previously ran Spoon springs on OEM dampers).

New trackrod ends fitted July 2009.

Toda exhaust mid-pipe reconditioned with new silencer in April 2009 as it had started blowing and was failing Donington’s 98db drive-by!

Auxiliary belt and tensioner replaced March 2008, it was squeaking and annoying me.

I have a full folder of receipts including paperwork from import onwards, oil purchases, undersealing/paintwork and any parts.


Condition

This is a 10 year old car that has done 77,000 miles. Unsurprisingly, it has picked up a few stonechips, surface scratches and general wear. Nevertheless, it looks pretty good and I have kept it shiny with Meguiars products. Notably, there is a scuff on the rear bumper (no doubt some idiot pushing past in a car park) that I have attempted to photograph (not easy) and a couple of light pin dents in the driver’s door. Also, there is a mark on the steering wheel where the leather has rubbed away due to the steering lock I used (no idea why it suddenly happened over four years after I started using it, maybe it got very hot?) You can see this mark in the pictures.

There are a couple of chips on the rear wheel rims which occurred when the tyres were changed, apparently due to water sitting in the gap where tyre meets wheel and lifting the paint over time. I have my suspicions that this is guff to cover the poor standards of the tyre place, but it doesn’t change the fact – you can also see this in the pics.

The driver’s seat bolster is in surprisingly good condition with only a little wear – I have seen much worse on the Recaros of cars many years and miles below this one. Otherwise, the interior is pretty good, with just the minor marks you would expect at this age.

I won’t pretend that the engine bay is something you’d eat your dinner off, but it is fairly clean – see pics. The rear exhaust heat shield rattles at cold idle RPM – doesn’t bother me, but it’s an easy fix if you want to.


History

I’m not going to lie and say this car hasn’t been tracked or driven hard. You wouldn’t need to do much searching to see it’s been on track! Nevertheless, with the uprated suspension, regular servicing and high quality parts, I don’t see why this is an issue. If you intend to use the car like I have, as a mixture of day to day and track a few times a year, it’s pretty much the ideal setup. I have never been off the track in it, so there haven’t been any gravel trap incidents (or worse).

The car doesn’t miss a beat, it’s been a faithful servant and I still love driving it. On the road, you have complete confidence and it's faster than plenty of turbo cars (hello Impreza Type-UK...) A lot of my miles are motorways, with a few A and B roads thrown in. On track, it’s awesome considering the relatively lowly spec compared to some cars – I have happily driven around roll-caged M3s and Imprezas around Donington, both at corners and on straights. It is surprisingly fast and carries fantastic corner speed for a FWD car - thank the suspension mods for that – these go beyond the basic coilovers and fast road setup, adding castor via a modified sub-frame, without making it unruly on the road. This was carried out by Race DNA in Leicestershire, some of you may well know Pez there – they mostly do race cars, Hondas and Porsches.

The only reason I’m selling is because after over five years, it’s time for a change. I haven’t decided what yet, but I also have a 420bhp RX-7 that is now my track car, so it may be an FD2 to keep running costs sensible, or it might be something a bit more extreme.


Optional Extras

There are a number of modifications that I will remove from the car unless the buyer wishes to keep them on at additional cost. Note that these prices are only if the parts remain on the car – individual sale prices will be higher. DO NOT send me messages about parts until the car is sold. Any parts left over will be put in a separate for sale thread. Until the car is sold, messages regarding parts will be ignored.

Mugen carbon bonnet: £200
J’s Racing front strut brace and engine torque damper: £100
J’s Racing C pillar bar: £50
Mugen upper rear strut bar: £80
Vision lowered seat rails (you’ll only want these if you’re approaching 6ft or taller!): £100
Paul G two-piece AP racing discs: £200

Keep the lot on for £650!

If the new owner doesn’t want any of the above, they will be removed and in the case of the bonnet and discs, replaced with the original parts.

I also have two sets of OEM white wheels with Kumho K70A track tyres in various states of wear, should the new owner want to negotiate a sale.


Contact & Questions

I am based between Nottingham and Derby, close to the M1, so travel should be easy for most people. Test drives will only be considered upon proof of insurance (and that means you are covered fully comp to drive other cars, not just third party!) Please ensure you can afford to buy and insure this car before asking to see it. In principle, any evening or weekend can be accommodated, subject to my diary.

Mobile: 07970 227 349
Email: ian@ianlockwood.net

Before anyone starts offering me well below the asking price, consider this: I don’t need to sell and I love the car. Don’t waste my time and yours thinking you can buy this car for £6k or something.

I am happy to answer any questions, preferably by email or private message as I am not always available on the phone due to work commitments. No part exchange unless you have an FD2, R35 GTR or Exige S/K20.

Not much space for uploads on here, so here are some pictures (most exterior shots taken earlier as the rain wasn't helping today):
















That's a Brodit ProClip in case you're wondering - not screwed or stuck to the dash, made specifically for the DC5. Just choose the correct holder for your phone and away you go!










Here you can see the J's Racing tow hook. Those are reflections, not scratches by the way!


Bottom-left is the mark on the steering wheel.




Notice small chips on the rims of the rear wheels in the above two pics.


You should be able to make out the scuff here.




Drives supercharged Tec with torque
Eck
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Registered: 17th Apr 06
Location: Lundin Links, Fife
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24th Sep 11 at 19:12   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

That's a fucking cracking motor MJ, I saw that on ITR but I didn't want to post a bible
gavin18787
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Registered: 22nd Feb 05
Location: Basildon, Essex
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24th Sep 11 at 19:17   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Plus anything with a toda and gruppe m will sound amazing


Drives supercharged Tec with torque
Rob R
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Registered: 31st May 03
Location: Kent
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24th Sep 11 at 21:26   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

If using as a daily then DC5, if soley for track then a 98spec JDM DC2.

Can fit K20's into ek9's and dc2's, just google "k-swap" to find out about them. Only problem with K20's in either of them is how low the sump sits, quite a few have seen an early grave due to smashing holes in them.

On a plus point if looking for easy power then it's cheaper to turbo a B series then it is a K series.
Corsa_Sport21
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Registered: 13th Apr 08
Location: Leven, Fife. Drives : 205 GTi
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24th Sep 11 at 23:08   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

On the road, there will be nothing in it between a JDM and UKDM DC2.

Seen it with my own eyes.
sand-eel
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Registered: 15th Mar 07
Location: carluke/braidwood--IRNBRULAND
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24th Sep 11 at 23:49   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Sure I seen a youtube video in japanese with a dc2 and ek9 racing in some mountain road and the ek9 was slightly faster.
AK
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Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
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25th Sep 11 at 10:35   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

wouldnt turbo it.....

Also - someone mentioned 'fine tuning the suspension with a camber kit' come on

Ok.... so find me a cheap 98 JDM DC2 (thats the one to go for, yes?)

and a cheap EK9
VrsTurbo
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Registered: 8th Jun 10
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25th Sep 11 at 10:46   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Very nice DC5 on ebay. Caged etc already

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Integra-dc5-extensively-modified-race-prepped-/220858792538?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item336c35ba5a
AK
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Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
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25th Sep 11 at 11:02   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

.... it wont reach its reserve
Eck
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Registered: 17th Apr 06
Location: Lundin Links, Fife
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25th Sep 11 at 13:13   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

98 spec is the one to go for, but finding one cheap isn't easy For the price of one, you'll get a well sorted 96 spec, or are you wanting as standard as possible? I'll have a look just now.
AK
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Location: Aberdeen City
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25th Sep 11 at 13:18   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

min - its hard work looking at these specs ....


short and sweet - whats the dif between 96/98 JDM

reading the above not mush to warrant paying more for one
Mieran
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Registered: 28th Jan 08
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne
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25th Sep 11 at 13:22   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by AK
min - its hard work looking at these specs ....


short and sweet - whats the dif between 96/98 JDM

reading the above not mush to warrant paying more for one


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34H2MCPEUV8
Eck
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Registered: 17th Apr 06
Location: Lundin Links, Fife
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25th Sep 11 at 13:28   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

The above is literally all you need to know about the differences You'll have a faster 96 spec for the price of a 98 one though!

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