Generation
Member
Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
|
Can anyone help with above? Do I need to use etch primer? And do the usual method?
Thanks
|
Jed D
Member
Registered: 15th Mar 11
Location: Durham
User status: Offline
|
etch is a strong gaurentee against rust to be used on bare metal, not as such high temps id imagine.
although it would help
|
ed
Member
Registered: 10th Sep 03
User status: Offline
|
Always use etch primer on bare metal. Just needs a light coating.
|
3CorsaMeal
Member
Registered: 11th Apr 02
User status: Offline
|
i only just started using etch primer, never knew i needed it before.
just done the etch primer, filler primer, grey primer, then paint and someone then tells me "oh, you need epoxy primer as well to stop rust"
great 
What do you think of that ed? i'm deffo not starting again, but might use it on the wings?
don't even know what it is really
|
ed
Member
Registered: 10th Sep 03
User status: Offline
|
Better off asking Tom - I only do what he told me back in the day 
|
3CorsaMeal
Member
Registered: 11th Apr 02
User status: Offline
|
What do you think of that Tom?
|
Graeme
Premium Member
Registered: 26th Jul 04
Location: Northampton
User status: Offline
|
Don't need any epoxy or shit.
A very light coat of etch. Let that dry. Then just a decent primer and then dry and flat.
Also never get people saying to flat basecoat before lacquer.
To many keyboard painters out there.
|
Graeme
Premium Member
Registered: 26th Jul 04
Location: Northampton
User status: Offline
|
Also I would reccomend KENT ULTRAFILL primer if you can get it. Grey or black have better build. Not cheap stuff but it has a built in etch so no need for that aswell.
|
jr
Member
Registered: 20th May 02
Location: Kent
User status: Offline
|
from the pics and from experience i have no idea how you will get a decent finish as there is still loads of blast media imprints and media itself left on what is a relatively soft high silicon alloy
its a by product of sand/shot blastic that you dont get with soda blasting, as your relying on the active media to do the job with soda, not the media just beeing fired into the item at a much higher pressure using friction to remove the paint/finish etc
[Edited on 04-01-2012 by jr]
|
Jed D
Member
Registered: 15th Mar 11
Location: Durham
User status: Offline
|
the etch stuff i used to use when i worked in that field of work was brite yellow and gaurentee'd for at least 3 years against rust.
we then used high build primer wich i believe is what your calling filler primer yes? Its just the same stuff as normal primer but has less thinners solution in it... flat that down (technique to that) then a normal primer and then water based paint x2 coats and then a drop coat THEN finally lacquer... unless it was the ford tipper council vans we had a contract with. they were high solids, bish bash bosh job done
what exactly are you painting like generation, engine parts?
try u2u'ing daveybee... from the work iv seen hes a cracking painter 
[Edited on 04-01-2012 by Jed D]
|
jr
Member
Registered: 20th May 02
Location: Kent
User status: Offline
|
if its the bits that are in gen project thread they wont rust as such as they are alloy
[Edited on 04-01-2012 by jr]
|
Jed D
Member
Registered: 15th Mar 11
Location: Durham
User status: Offline
|
..just if the parts are going upto high temps you'll need the rite paint, cant just think etch will do the job
|
Tomnova16
Premium Member
Registered: 21st Jan 06
Location: Gerrards Cross Drives: Porsche 911
User status: Offline
|
quote:
Originally posted by Graeme
Don't need any epoxy or shit.
A very light coat of etch. Let that dry. Then just a decent primer and then dry and flat.
Also never get people saying to flat basecoat before lacquer.
To many keyboard painters out there.
http://www.lemass.co.uk/ for all your automotive/bodyshop needs
Located in Chalfont st Peter
|
AndyCorsaSport
Member
Registered: 12th Feb 06
Location: Horsforth, West Yorkshire
User status: Offline
|
quote:
Originally posted by Graeme
Also I would reccomend KENT ULTRAFILL primer if you can get it. Grey or black have better build. Not cheap stuff but it has a built in etch so no need for that aswell.
Kent is the shit, drys really quick too. Top stuff!! Got loads of it at work, only grey red and white though. I use it all the time 
|
Generation
Member
Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
|
It's a throttle cable bracket a throttle body and a fuel rail.
Not bothered about them having a texture due to hot blasting, just better than manky metal
|
3CorsaMeal
Member
Registered: 11th Apr 02
User status: Offline
|
i did a thick coat of etch primer, well two coats of what i would say would be a normal coat
|
taylorboosh
Member
Registered: 3rd Apr 07
User status: Offline
|
quote:
Originally posted by Jed D
the etch stuff i used to use when i worked in that field of work was brite yellow and gaurentee'd for at least 3 years against rust.
we then used high build primer wich i believe is what your calling filler primer yes? Its just the same stuff as normal primer but has less thinners solution in it... flat that down (technique to that) then a normal primer and then water based paint x2 coats and then a drop coat THEN finally lacquer... unless it was the ford tipper council vans we had a contract with. they were high solids, bish bash bosh job done
what exactly are you painting like generation, engine parts?
try u2u'ing daveybee... from the work iv seen hes a cracking painter
[Edited on 04-01-2012 by Jed D]
Aslong as his mate si doesn't do them......rough as fuck..
|
