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Author Machining alloy wheel centre bore
nibnob21
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Registered: 16th May 10
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8th Jun 12 at 00:21   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Does anyone have any experience with this or know how much it is likely to cost to have the bore of my alloy wheels machined?

My wheels have a centre bore of 57.1mm and they ideally need to be 60.1 so that I can get some suitable sized spigot rings to fit the Corsa hub of 56.6mm.

Can someone recommend anywhere in the West Midlands/Warwickshire that offer this service?

Thanks.


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DERV-POWER
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8th Jun 12 at 06:08   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

i ve used these in the past http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5X-60-X-25-FLAP-WHEEL-POISHING-GRINDING-BUFFING-MOP-/350451974852?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item519890c2c4
gazza808
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8th Jun 12 at 06:25   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Ring your local engineering/machine shops,
I've done a set at work. Took me half hour, and we charge 35quid an hour for stuff like that.
If they have a big enough lathe it piss easy.
scottyp1989
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8th Jun 12 at 08:27   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

TBH with a difference of .5 mm i wouldnt bother with spigot rings.
nibnob21
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8th Jun 12 at 08:34   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Trust me it makes a difference. Look at my thread in the help section and you'll see.


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AK
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8th Jun 12 at 08:36   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

had it done in the past.

A set of Raceline RL7s bored to suit a corsa hub. Local one man band with lathe did all 4 for £50.
nibnob21
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8th Jun 12 at 08:37   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Derv power- not really keen on doing it myself, they have to be perfectly centred so would rather leave it to a professional.

Gazza - these don't seem to be loads of machine shops around here, but I'll give a couple of them a ring to see. I've heard a huge difference in price from different people on the internet, some have said about £20 per wheel, others £10. Hopefully it won't cost much!


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ed
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8th Jun 12 at 08:38   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by scottyp1989
TBH with a difference of .5 mm i wouldnt bother with spigot rings.

.5mm is massive in terms of a tolerance fit.
nibnob21
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8th Jun 12 at 08:39   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

AK - Yeah I'd be willing to pay around £50, any more and it's starting to get a bit much.


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Sean-B
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8th Jun 12 at 08:45   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Much easier to machine / make some very small spigot rings.
nibnob21
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8th Jun 12 at 09:09   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I got in touch with a spigot ring specialist last night and he said a difference of 0.5mm would be impossible to make rings for. Smallest he's ever achieved is a side wall thickness of 0.35mm and I'd require 0.25mm.

Hence why I'm looking at having the wheels machined so some normal sized spigot rings can be used


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Nic Barnes
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8th Jun 12 at 09:55   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I need this done on a set of mo's someone butchered with what looks like a file or a grinder. Quote i got was 30 plus vat.
nibnob21
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8th Jun 12 at 12:29   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Just got through to a machine shop in Stratford Upon Avon who are willing to do it for £40. Hopefully popping down on Monday or Tuesday to get them done. Will just have to put up with the vibration or come up with a quick bodge for the drive to PVS and back!


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ed
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8th Jun 12 at 15:50   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Just realised your location - if you get stuck drop me a u2u. I have a contact who runs a machine shop in Birmingham who seems to be able to just about anything I ask.
Paul W
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8th Jun 12 at 16:03   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Are you sure it's that that's the problem? I run 57.1 on my OZ wheels and they actually drive better than the speedlines. Dan's BBS are 57.1 too and he's had no issues


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nibnob21
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8th Jun 12 at 17:01   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by Paul W
Are you sure it's that that's the problem? I run 57.1 on my OZ wheels and they actually drive better than the speedlines. Dan's BBS are 57.1 too and he's had no issues


Pretty sure. It's the only obvious thing left really. Nothing done so far has even helped in the slightest.

The vibrations only started occurring when I switched from standard steelies to these wheels too.

The balancing has been done 2 or 3 times. Tracking done 2 or 3 times. Wheels aren't buckled or damaged.

Track rod ends and Ball joints and a new o/s track rod changed nothing. Switching wheels around changes nothing. Sometimes after having the wheels off and then putting them back on the vibrations can be better or worse; which indicates it's the centre bore as each time the wheels go back on they may be slightly better or slightly worse centred than before.

Vibrations only occur above 60mph which also points to the bore being the problem as it indicates a balancing issue, but as the wheels themselves are balanced this means the bore is the only other realistic thing that would cause the vibration.

The car has been to 3 garages. The 1st checked the whole of the front suspension and the steering mechanisms and found absolutely nothing wrong with anything apart from slight wear in the o/s tie rod, which has now been changed. Another garage took it for a drive and they think it's down to the bore difference and the 3rd one agreed with the 2nd.

I honestly can't see it being anything else but this.


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gazza808
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8th Jun 12 at 18:48   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Do they use flat wheel bolts or taper?
nibnob21
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8th Jun 12 at 19:02   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Err just regular Vauxhall wheel bolts. Think they're tapered?! Why'd you ask?


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ed
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9th Jun 12 at 13:15   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I think you're meant to replace the wheel bolts with ones specifically for alloy wheels when going from steelies to alloys. Your wheels should have come with some.

I think the main difference is the length of the bolt, but I've heard that the taper on the bolt is different too - perhaps someone can confirm?
nibnob21
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9th Jun 12 at 13:32   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Got the wheels second hand so they didn't come with any bolts. Any way I can check if I've got the right bolts? Or a way of finding out which bolts would be correct to use?


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nibnob21
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9th Jun 12 at 13:58   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Just took one of the wheels off and they do take the Vauxhall 60deg tapered bolt, not a radius or flat type. Could probably do with some longer bolts but they still mate properly with the alloys.


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gazza808
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9th Jun 12 at 16:31   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

If they use taper bolts, no need to sort the spigot, the bolts should pull it central.
gazza808
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9th Jun 12 at 16:32   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Assuming you do them up the correct way.
nibnob21
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9th Jun 12 at 16:45   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I do them up in a star pattern and torque them up to 110Nm.

Still need to sort spigots because there's still too much stress being put on the bolts, so having the wheels machined is still necessary.


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