Makarus
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Registered: 25th Jun 02
Location: Nottingham/Derbyshire Boarder.
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I have quite an annoying problem. Whenever I take my head unit above around 20 (Alpine CDA7893R) the sub cuts out. No distortion, it just stops working, then it will suddenly start again, then cut out again..........only way to solve it is obviously to turn down.
I thought maybe wiring was loose but I have moved my setup to my new car and fitted a full new amp wiring kit and distribution block, rewired all the speakers and such and double checked everything.
Anyone got any idea's what it could be??
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CopyWrite
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Registered: 16th Apr 02
Location: South Walez
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I have this problem too.
it's annoyin.
Ma gains not even half on the amp running the sub.
The whole lot cuts out, H/U & all...n then comes back on.
If some1 can solve this u will do us a favour.
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Makarus
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Registered: 25th Jun 02
Location: Nottingham/Derbyshire Boarder.
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Fell for ya bud, so confusing with me though. Fully rewired the setup, checked all my gains and such and they are fine, no problems. Just dont understand it cutting out. I would have thought it would distort before it just cuts out.
Makes me think its like a trip switch, if its fed too much power then it cuts to stop any damage to the sub, if this is true then I can cope because at least I know I wont blow my sub, if not then I am still stuck.
I want to put another 15" sub running off the amp and can't be doing with that cutting out too.
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Mo
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Registered: 29th Jan 03
Location: Bolton, Drives Q3 S-line +
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it sounds like your amps are not getting enough power. if thats the case try a thicker power cable.
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Makarus
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Registered: 25th Jun 02
Location: Nottingham/Derbyshire Boarder.
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I thought that, but the cable is supposedly ample for the system, enough wattage rating. I have an Autoleads kit, 360W Max 30amp wiring kit. I suppose I could buy a more heavy duty power cable, what would you recommend I look for??
Was gonna try another cable but at £20 a throw I wouldnt want to do it unless it was my only option.
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Mo
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Registered: 29th Jan 03
Location: Bolton, Drives Q3 S-line +
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Your best man to ask is 'Richie' i'm sure he can recommend u what leads to use. If your running 2 amps why don't u run 2 power leads?
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Makarus
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Registered: 25th Jun 02
Location: Nottingham/Derbyshire Boarder.
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Nah, at the moment I have a 30amp cable running from the battery to a 4 way distribution block, then from the block I have one feed running to the head unit because it has a high current draw, the other 30amp cable runs to the boot to power a 4 channel amp which is bridged to run 2 channels for the 2 subs for the time being until I can afford 2 monoblocks.
I think all I would need is to run a 0 gauge cable to the distribution block and I should be alright then with the 2 powers coming from it. Would you agree??
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langey
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Registered: 7th Sep 03
Location: Wigan
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i have this problem, only running one sub and one amp, had 0guage power cable, and still nowt, so my solution was rip the fucker out and leave it sat in my room gathering dust, total waste of 700quid 
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AdiSRI
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Registered: 1st May 02
Location: Berkshire
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If your running 2 amps, the autoleads 8 gauge wiring kit isnt really enough.
i can reccomend the directed 4 gauge kit, comes with everything you ned, but i doubt this is the source of your problems....
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Richie
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Registered: 3rd Dec 02
Location: Newport, Wales
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What amp you running Mak? And do you have the bass settings whacked all the way up on the HU?
Do you look at the amp when it cuts the sub out to see if any sort of protect light comes on? Or does the power on the amp go altogether then come back?
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Makarus
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Registered: 25th Jun 02
Location: Nottingham/Derbyshire Boarder.
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Sorry people to make sure this is cleared up.
1 feed coming from battery which leads to distribution block behind dash.
From the block comes 1 cable running to the head unit, another cable runs to the boot.
In the boot I have a 4 channel amp which is bridge to control 2 subs.
On the head unit I haven't touched the bass settings, there is a feature called defeat on the alpines which puts all bass to the subs so it doesn't let me touch bass or trebble when its on.
I have looked when the sub is cutting out and I can't see any light that comes on. It seems to work alright for a bit but then if a big bass line drops the sub goes.
Do you think running a larger cable to the distribution block, such as a 2/0 gauge would help. I am planning on running another amp or 2 (total 3) in the future, but for that I would be running a huge power from the battery to the boot, then running the rest from a fused distrubtion block. Can't see there being any problems there though.
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Mo
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Registered: 29th Jan 03
Location: Bolton, Drives Q3 S-line +
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why have u got defeat on?? turn defeat off and set the HU to your settings. With defeat on get crap sound.
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Richie
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Registered: 3rd Dec 02
Location: Newport, Wales
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The defeat option may be sending too much of a distorted signal into the amplifier.
IMO you should just try playing around with the headunits settings, it should work.
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Makarus
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Registered: 25th Jun 02
Location: Nottingham/Derbyshire Boarder.
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I'll give it a go then, I have always been happy with the increased quality that turning defeat on gave. It seemed to clean distortion from the old speakers, but saying that I now have JBL GTI 6x9's and JBL GTO 13cm components, so they should be alright.
Cheers for the help with this peeps. Will let you know tomorrow if my problem has been solved.
[Edited on 19-09-2004 by Makarus]
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Mo
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Registered: 29th Jan 03
Location: Bolton, Drives Q3 S-line +
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Makarus
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Registered: 25th Jun 02
Location: Nottingham/Derbyshire Boarder.
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Tried it today and still the same problem. It appears to be going louder but still cuts out, even though it could be me just not comparing the volume properly.
I am going to see if I can find a single metre of 4/2 gauage and run that from battery to distribution block and see it that helps at all. Hopefully it will, can't see what else I can do.
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Dom
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Registered: 13th Sep 03
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havnt read whole post (sorry) but when its cuts out, do any of the lights on the amp cut out?
just thinking if the amp is over heating or some sort of protection is happening?
Also, you said you wasnt getting any sound from your preouts, but now you have seemed to have sorted that....but when it does cut out, is there any signal on the preouts?
tbh, i would see if you can borrow an amp or another HU (or both if possible), and if its the amp that has gone or the HU...although richie does have a good suggestion about the preouts grounding...although i would buzz the preout cable with ground (body shell, whilst driving if pos) and if it grounding out.
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1.6 Sport BadBoy
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Registered: 16th Jul 03
Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne
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checked your alternator? might be getting abit rough nd not charging your battery correctly. try putting a voltmeter over the terminals whilst the car is turned off(should be arround the 12volt mark); then try again when the cars turned on (13-14volts) If this is fine, have you considered a powercap to ease the strain on the battery and alternator?
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Makarus
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Registered: 25th Jun 02
Location: Nottingham/Derbyshire Boarder.
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I have just run a new 4 gauge from the (+) on the battery to the dist block, gonna see how it goes with this.
I have never noticed a light when it cuts out. Will investigate the other options if it still happens.
It am pretty certain it aint the alternator because its a V reg Civic. 1999, alternator should still be fine 5 years later, never really run a big install or owt either.
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CopyWrite
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Registered: 16th Apr 02
Location: South Walez
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If u eva solve it let me kno plz.
Mines an alpine 9812rb....buts out as soon as its on 20. no distortion either.
the sub level can be what eva it wants to be, aswell as the gains on the amp and freq settings....it's just as soon as it hits no.20 on the volume.
The amp is def not over heating, or even near clipping...it's a Phoenix Gold xs4600 bridged to run 2 JL Audio's.
There's also phoenix Octane R's runnin off the HU in the front doors.
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langey
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Registered: 7th Sep 03
Location: Wigan
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quote:
Originally posted by VisibleMan
havnt read whole post (sorry) but when its cuts out, do any of the lights on the amp cut out?
just thinking if the amp is over heating or some sort of protection is happening?
.
i got the same problem, subs vibrates and when the bass starts to kick in the amp ont he light licks of and the sub just starts beating slow.
maybe this is my problem?
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Makarus
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Registered: 25th Jun 02
Location: Nottingham/Derbyshire Boarder.
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Tried...........failed
Bit annoying, but at least the cable looks beefy and is ready now to deal with another amp in the boot.
Kinda lost as to what to do now, tried messing with the gains, still no help really, get maybe 1-2 more points higher on the volume.
Seems to happen around 19-20 from hip hop with low hitting bass but about 24 with quick punchy house.
Gonna try a different amp tomorrow and see if that solves the problem. If not then I will try a different sub, if still the same problem then it must be the head unit, which is getting replaced by a TV soon anyway.
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Richie
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Registered: 3rd Dec 02
Location: Newport, Wales
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In my opinion i still think its recieving a distorted signal.
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Makarus
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Registered: 25th Jun 02
Location: Nottingham/Derbyshire Boarder.
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Tried messing with my HPF and LPF on the head unit, as recommended by copywrite. Still no luck. At least it sorted his problem out. Tried turning defeat off and messing with everything too, still no luck, but it does seem to be able to handle more bass now before it cuts out.
Will try messing with every function again. Thought the HPF/LPF changes would fix the problem, but at least if the fact that chaging settings is slightly increasing capability it supports your theory Richie.
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Mo
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Registered: 29th Jan 03
Location: Bolton, Drives Q3 S-line +
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ok i've ran out of ideas  Richie, anymore tricks up your sleeve?
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