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Author C20LET
Filby1
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Registered: 12th Dec 03
Location: Brighouse
User status: Offline
26th Jul 05 at 15:27   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

How much more (Cost wise) is it to bob a let in the corsa rather than a C20XE?
Jambo
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Registered: 8th Sep 01
Location: Maidenhead, Drives: VXR Arctic
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26th Jul 05 at 15:28   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

My conversion which didnt include F28 or any extensive re-build cost approx £3.5k+
Filby1
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Registered: 12th Dec 03
Location: Brighouse
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26th Jul 05 at 15:30   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Fooking hell
Jambo
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Registered: 8th Sep 01
Location: Maidenhead, Drives: VXR Arctic
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26th Jul 05 at 15:38   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Thats not skimping but not going all out.

Id have preffered an F28, now need valve stem seals doing. Tappets might be worth replacing whilst heads off.

Buy a blown engine with an ok turbo. Re-build it to your desired spec. Then u know what your getting.

Brett
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Registered: 16th Dec 02
Location: Manchester
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26th Jul 05 at 15:44   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by Jambo
My conversion which didnt include F28 or any extensive re-build cost approx £3.5k+


would be cheaper to buy a corsa with conversion already done
Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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26th Jul 05 at 16:35   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

mine has cost me about 4k's worth of engine re-build a'la more bhp style.

depends what condition engine and how much it costs etc. id allow about 500 minimum for all the little bits of shit ya need if not more like a grand.

im up to about 5k id say and it doesnt even run yet, need to wire it tonight, plus 3k for the car
bradfincham
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Registered: 20th Sep 02
Location: East Of England Drives: Clio 172
User status: Offline
26th Jul 05 at 16:36   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

engine including rebuild - £1500
f28 box with diff - £600
frontera intercooler - £100
phase 2 - £300
hoses, clips, £300

Im budgeting £3k to have phase 2 with a resonable rebuild spec
Jambo
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Registered: 8th Sep 01
Location: Maidenhead, Drives: VXR Arctic
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26th Jul 05 at 16:38   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Brad where u getting a rebuilt engien for £1600

I paid close to that and mine only had a sealed head!

F28 ull need a 2wd kit+clutch to cope with phase 2

Get a forge FMIC me and corb both running them, they are small but big capacity.

Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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26th Jul 05 at 16:39   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

see 1500 for engine and a rebuild would probably just cover the bottom end re-build of mine id say. depends what you want out of it though
bradfincham
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Registered: 20th Sep 02
Location: East Of England Drives: Clio 172
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26th Jul 05 at 16:43   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

you need to know people in the know!

yeh thats including the diff and 2wd conversion kit at pretty much trade price!!

but mine will be done with new hoses, crimps, jubilee clips, brakcets, bolts on absolutely everything
Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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26th Jul 05 at 16:46   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

you must know the right folk then feck me. 1500 actually doesnt cover the bottom end components in my re-build and thats me doing it myself as well
bradfincham
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Registered: 20th Sep 02
Location: East Of England Drives: Clio 172
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26th Jul 05 at 16:49   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

thats headwork such as lifters and tappets,
piston liners, new rings, stem seals, big ends, little ends

i could go on
loo_goblin
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Registered: 14th Jul 04
Location: Horsham, West Sussex
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26th Jul 05 at 16:49   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

i can get everything at trade and labour free, so a LET is deffo a plan wen i have returned from uni into the land of cheaper insurance.

how much does the FMIC cost and is that the 8.1?
bradfincham
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Registered: 20th Sep 02
Location: East Of England Drives: Clio 172
User status: Offline
26th Jul 05 at 16:50   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

buying calibra turbo so the engine shall be free as the interior and other parts shall cover the cost, sorry i mean to say thats £1500 for the LET rebuild!!
timrud_
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Registered: 3rd Jul 04
Location: Sheffield
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26th Jul 05 at 17:00   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Where do u get a box and diff for 600! I'll have one at that price

A diff is 435, then it needs fitting, plus box converting to FWD!
bradfincham
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Registered: 20th Sep 02
Location: East Of England Drives: Clio 172
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26th Jul 05 at 17:04   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

buy the car, then the engine and box is supplied,

f28 if you go to the right places is £200 and £395 ish trade for the diff

so much cheaper to buy the whole car and split
Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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26th Jul 05 at 17:10   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

if you can get things at them kindsa prices could would be rude not to. my prices work out for bottom end alone

pistons - 500
rods - 600
oil psray bars - 100
sbd high pressure or whatever oil pump - 150ish
gasket set - 40
sbd heavy duty bearings - 80ish i think
block machines for spray bars - 40
repair block and rebore to 87mil - 50ish

bound to be summit im missing off there

thats 1560 worth so if you can get a whole engine done for that then get it done right away, if anything you will make money by doing it
bradfincham
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Registered: 20th Sep 02
Location: East Of England Drives: Clio 172
User status: Offline
26th Jul 05 at 17:12   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

but im not going for rods or special pistons or spray bars like you are, its just a standard rebuild pretty much
Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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26th Jul 05 at 17:18   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

yeah, suppose, ive rebult an xe on about 250 many moons ago and the let i got came with f28 fwd converted running in a cav gsi for 895 so anything is possible

timrud_
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Registered: 3rd Jul 04
Location: Sheffield
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26th Jul 05 at 17:24   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Muppetsport.... forgot to tell you on PM and can't be bothered to open the U2U window!

Steve Broughton (Of SBD) has told my mate that if you run oil sprayers you can't keep enough oil pressure. Talk to SBD! The suggested way is to drill a tiny hole in the rod? I've seen a rod done (might of been from an F1 car).
Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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26th Jul 05 at 17:33   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

reckon i know what you mean. them steel rods ive got have something done to em apparantly. its just the home made eds phase 4 engine that i got. them spray bars only release right up top revs i belive. ball bearing in the end of em so they arent going all the time. only when oil pressure is right up.

well, will see how long it lasts, lol. that daredevil nova thing from germany or some other foreign land and the 600+bhp white nova thing has em. will let ya know probably tomorrow when i get the car fired up if i have oil pressure or not. if not, cost a fw quid to fix, lol. doh
timrud_
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Registered: 3rd Jul 04
Location: Sheffield
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26th Jul 05 at 17:41   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

think it will just give you slightly lower oil pressure, but not sure by how much. Would dry sumping solve it or not? Am I barking up the wrong tree lol
BeArDy
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Registered: 7th Aug 00
Location: Manchester
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26th Jul 05 at 17:43   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

you can turn the oil pump up so runs slightly more presure if you run oil spray bars.
heres a pics of the ones i will be running
BeArDy
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Registered: 7th Aug 00
Location: Manchester
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26th Jul 05 at 17:44   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by timrud_
think it will just give you slightly lower oil pressure, but not sure by how much. Would dry sumping solve it or not? Am I barking up the wrong tree lol


-oil spray bars are to cool the underside of your pistons
-Dry sump is so you can rev high and not have the top of the engine flud with oil
Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
User status: Offline
26th Jul 05 at 17:52   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

beardy - same kinda shit i got in mine, hole in bearing for the spray nozzle etc.

only went for em as i melted 3 pistons last time, so like tesco's, every little helps

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