Tom
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Registered: 3rd Apr 02
Location: Wirral, Merseyside
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I know some of you have got puma's have previously owned, i'm off to look at one over the weekend and wanted the low down...
Things to look out for?:
Rust on the rear arches...
Normal panel gaps, boot floor etc
WHAT ELSE?
Also what are the 1.7 16v's like to live with, low 30's mpg, is the ride ok?
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Ojc
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Registered: 14th Nov 00
Location: Reading: Drives : Clio 197
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Heater control thingy bob in the engine bay, complete crap design.
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Tom
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Registered: 3rd Apr 02
Location: Wirral, Merseyside
User status: Offline
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Care to elaborate, what do I need to look out for
I'm assuming bits are cheap with it basically being a fiesta?
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Scotty C
Member
Registered: 6th Nov 05
Location: Kidderminster Drives: 1.6 16v Sport
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My mom had the 1.7 Puma for 4 years. Never missed a beat! Was a brilliant little car. 123bhp IIRC? not that fast though
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Tom
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Registered: 3rd Apr 02
Location: Wirral, Merseyside
User status: Offline
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Don't really need it to be fast just reliable enough to get me to and from work 30 mile round trip every day tbh. Can pick them up for about a grand and apart from being a bit girly I reckon the look ok
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Ojc
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Registered: 14th Nov 00
Location: Reading: Drives : Clio 197
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Its in the engine bay with two pipes coming from the back of the engine, you will know what I mean when you see it.
When Steve gets back from farting around he will have a picture of what you need to look for.
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DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
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Heater solenoid is the same as the Fiesta too.. Luckilly its an easy and cheap fix
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Tom
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Registered: 3rd Apr 02
Location: Wirral, Merseyside
User status: Offline
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They sound pretty solid by all acount
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adiohead
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Registered: 28th Sep 01
User status: Offline
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early zetec-se engines can suffer from crank float problems. not sure if they ever uprated the 1.7 engine
[Edited on 01-04-2010 by adiohead]
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davieslim
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Registered: 15th Sep 08
Location: Glasgow City
User status: Offline
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the heater solenoid siezes in the closes position so stops the heaters working but as said its a cheap fix
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Steve
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
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check the heater blows hot and cold, if constant either or probably heater control valve, not too much a big deal cause its only £27.
check for rust on rear archs, oil level, as oil level is crucial to be maintained in these engines, check for smoke as well, the bores are nikasil lined as they are essentially a 1.6 bored out, early engines suffered from nikasil (bore lining) failiure until production moved into europe then they were ok, (about t reg onwards)
check that when the car goes over 12mph the abs pump makes a clicky grindy noise, you will hear it, this is it doing a self test, if you dont hear anything could be a sign the abs pump is on the way out.
if the car is digital mileage i can tell you how to put it into diag mode which will tell you if the car has any DTC's
check cambelt has been done, interval is 80k or 10 years whichever first, can be quite a costly job on these engines
rev the engine and check for any misfire or flat spots, coil pack is common on these
road test it and check the car steers straight and does not veer or pull from side to side, worn lower arms are also quite common although they are only 50 quid a side plus one hours labour to relace
check the electric front windows rise up and down smoothly and that when going into the rubber at the top of the door it doesnt catch and pull the rubber in with it, again common and there isnt really a fix for it, some people find silicon spray sorts it
apart from all that, cars are a great drive, you will enjoy it
[Edited on 01-04-2010 by Steve]
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Tom
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Registered: 3rd Apr 02
Location: Wirral, Merseyside
User status: Offline
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Awesome thanks steve.
How much is a coil pack & what is a DTC (a fault)? Think the one i'm going to see I think is X reg, will this be digi dash?
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Steve
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
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yes thats the same as mine,coil pack if you get one from ford is 100 quid from a motorfactor around 30
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Steve
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
User status: Offline
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Digital Dash Unlock:
§ Insert Key but do not turn on.
§ Press and hold Trip Meter Reset Button.
§ Holding the Reset Button, start car and continue holding Button.
§ Within 10 seconds, display should change to "Test" in LCD Screen and Dial Needles will do a full sweep. Release Button.
Pressing Button will now cycle through different modes:
1. Shows Gauge Sweep.
2. Shows all 8's on LCD (LCD Test).
3. Illuminates Dash Bulbs.
4. Displays hexadecimal value for ROM level.
5. Displays hexadecimal value for EE level.
6. Shows DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code).
7. Digital Speedometer – Mph.
8. Digital Speedometer – Kph.
9. N/A.
10. Digital Tachometer.
11. Fuel Volume.
12. Engine Coolant Temperature.
13. Battery Voltage.
14. ABS Fail.
15. Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) Failure.
16. Illumination.
17. Crank Sense.
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Steve
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
User status: Offline
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yes dtc is stored fault codes
heres a list
http://www.pumapeople.com/wiki/index.php/DTC%27s
you might need to register
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Tom
Member
Registered: 3rd Apr 02
Location: Wirral, Merseyside
User status: Offline
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Funnily enough I registered there earlier. Thanks I will see if I can do that when I go
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Steve
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
User status: Offline
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Its easy enough, hold the trip reset button in, start car, release button when dash displays TEST, then press it about 6 times to get the DTCs
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Tom
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Registered: 3rd Apr 02
Location: Wirral, Merseyside
User status: Offline
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Ok cool, there are a lot of codes there (should I be concenred if any of them are showing e.g. are some likely to be?)...
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Ben G
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Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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great driving car. not so good on motorways as cabin noise is quite loud due to the high revs.
problems are what steve has said.
i currently have a small piece of rust at the bottom of my passenger door at the back which is where the water seems to gather and sit.
door sill plates usually cover up rust aswell sometimes.
they are quite small cars so check you can actually fit in them. my head is about an inch off the roof lining
seats aren't the most supportive but they are ok.
check there is a spare wheel under the car on the hanger bit.
exhausts can rust as usual, mines pretty bad and needs replacing.
i have been getting between 250-300 miles from a tank of fuel with mixed driving which is brilliant in my eyes, compared to previous cars i've owned.
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Ben G
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Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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also, check the steering wheel leather bits haven't melted. common problem, probably caused by moisturiser on hands.
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Tom
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Registered: 3rd Apr 02
Location: Wirral, Merseyside
User status: Offline
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Are they 40 litre tanks? 250 - 300 miles to 9 gallons that's low 30's yeah? That would do me fine on mixed driving.
No issue about me fitting i'm only 5ft 8
Thanks ben will bear those things in mind.
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Steve
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
User status: Offline
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quote: Originally posted by Tom
Ok cool, there are a lot of codes there (should I be concenred if any of them are showing e.g. are some likely to be?)...
shouldnt be any
any will probably just be sensor related so non really and worse then any others tbh
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Tom
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Registered: 3rd Apr 02
Location: Wirral, Merseyside
User status: Offline
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adiohead
Member
Registered: 28th Sep 01
User status: Offline
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This thread makes me want another Fiesta Zetec-S
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Ben G
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Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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quote: Originally posted by Tom
Are they 40 litre tanks? 250 - 300 miles to 9 gallons that's low 30's yeah? That would do me fine on mixed driving.
No issue about me fitting i'm only 5ft 8
Thanks ben will bear those things in mind.
not sure on tank size. i thought they were 38 litre tanks though as cost me £40 to fill up from the petrol light coming on.
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