taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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what should be replaced? what needs checking? is it easy enough?
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Gary
Premium Member
Registered: 22nd Nov 06
Location: West Yorkshire
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quote: Originally posted by john-d
what should be replaced? loads of stuff
what needs checking? loads of stuff
is it easy enough?
if your having to ask the 2 previous questions, then i'd say yes
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AK
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Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
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you replace what needs replaced.
as a matter of course bearings, seals and gaskets, rings are changed normally.
Pistons, crank, cams etc should all be checked for wear, scoring etc.
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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what i mean is, im fairly competant. i can change brakes, suspension ect. never tried to rebuild an engine, its a small 1970s engine so im hoping simpler?
is it some thing a novice should try
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AK
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Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
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if you have a note of tolerances for checking, and torque for rebuilding i cant see why not.
Strip, clean, check, check check, dry build, check tolerances for bearings etc (plastiguage), clean, build/lube etc - kaboom
Does it need rebuilt?
[Edited on 21-10-2011 by AK]
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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its an unknown quantity... planning on turbo conversion on it.. have the means to lower compression already just would like to know its right enough first
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AK
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Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
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maybe just do a compression test (leak down) on it to see if its in an ok state just now? Run
it for a while as is (or has that been done)?
I always say if its isnt broken, dont fix it A couple of engine 'builds' I've paid for have prob seen the engine in a worse state that it was before
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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well the car is from 1973 and i have no proof of servicing ect, the oil that came out was black as fuck. cylinder head needs to come off anyway and im changing the cam anyway??
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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ete Richards ("benwick3") has built and is troubleshooting a 930-headed race motor for his Clan Crusader. I think he posted some details about the work he has done to the cylinder head. He seems to be of the opinion that there is real potential there. And why not?
Depending upon the resources you have at your disposal - as in mates with engineering firms or pots of money - you might consider drilling the ports out to Sport specification (or at least considerably larger than stock 930 size) and having aluminium alloy sleeves welded in to give you your new ports. Substantial work would also be needed in the port throat area just beneath the valve to blend in the sleeves and you would need to pressure test the head casting to ensure that there were no coolant jacket leaks. All possible, though.
Aside from that and the manifolding, control logic (boost management, ignition timing control, fuel/air mixture, etc.), it ought to be straightforward. The bottom end could remain more standard, although I would want to add a block strengthening plate, main bearing cap studs, ARP big end bolts and so on, as well as a bronze oil pump drive gear, competition timing chain, timing chain tensioner stop and the usual race engine goodies because of the rev potential you are shooting for.
snippet from imp forum of what id need to do although the thread hasnt been up long and its a pretty dead place
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philip2
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Registered: 1st Oct 06
Location: n.wales/chester
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what engine is it matey?
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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engine in question
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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875 from a hillman imp... would prefer to do work myself as i enjoy doing it and learning how things work
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Gary
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Registered: 22nd Nov 06
Location: West Yorkshire
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Haynes manual available for them?
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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If you have the means and the time then there's no better way of learning how things work by doing. Have you heard it running at all because it might not be necessary to take the pistons and crank off, you can also do a compression test as AK said to check the health of the bores/rings.
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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mate i have atleast 6-7 differant manuals for it.... including a haynes and also a gen rootes workshop one... didnt think to look for rebuilds in them lol
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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yes it was running, water pumps fucked though and shat itself on my floor
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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Should have all the strip and rebuild procedures in them along with the tolerances and torque settings. Go for it
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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I was going to do it regardless of what people said... More interested in what i will need to source...
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AK
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Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
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you'll find that out one you strip it
New gaskets and seals... 100%
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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Yea those are given. Wasthinking of some uprated gaskets.. what would be best
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AK
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Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
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just a metal layered HG (cometic etc) , slightly thicker if skimming the head or lowering compression a touch. (not two like a courtney turbo conversion )
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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Yea it will be a tad thicker but i have a larger cc head to lower compression
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Ian
Site Administrator
Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
User status: Online
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You'll definitely learn a lot doing it.
Probably doesn't 100% need it though and you might spend money on consumables for it to be no better when it's done, very minimum is gaskets, belts and head bolts, probably more when you get it open. Typically about £100 worth of stuff before you even uprate anything, and that's assuming you have every tool that you might need.
Also need to lock the cams to get it back together? That needs a tool or a bodge. Not impossible to do on the cheap but it may test your patience.
Consider as well the cost if you total junk it, I work on the assumption that stuff I work on I can replace the engine even if complete balls it up fairly cheaply. Not sure how the supply of your engine is.
[Edited on 21-10-2011 by Ian]
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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Pretty easy to source a cheap engine tbh. Thing is the allure is i want a engine thats safe to handle 120 bhp and that is fun and revvy... 8k rpn is what i aim for as plenty have engines capable of that
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Ian
Site Administrator
Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
User status: Online
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8krpm generally needs good rods and bolts and pistons which aren't too heavy. You should be OK because displacement is low in the engine but an engine with a smaller stroke and larger bore is preferable for this.
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