Wrighty
Member
Registered: 28th Feb 04
Location: Howden
User status: Offline
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just make sure you get ACL bearings on your rebuild, has it got parallel fuel rail setup? if not invest in that too as a safety mod
you can spend money all day long on them
il be doing a big power build at some point but i want a go in all the different options first to see what i like
dont see many in royal silver either glad i got a silver one...still only 48k on mine 
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SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
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I have managed to procure an STi 8 Short block with Wiseco pistons although one piston needs replacing. Was lucky to get this block just for the price of shipping 
Will be getting Tim (ex Zen mechanic) to strip and inspect it then will look at rebuild options.
[Edited on 24-05-2011 by SetH]
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fazza
Member
Registered: 7th Feb 08
Location: Plymouth
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you going to engine tuner for a build?
there down the road from me
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SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
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No Tim is the ex chief performance mechanic from Zen and has a very good and proven reputation. I believe he is local to me and works mobile so will be going with him.
Every day I change my mind on wether to go for a standard rebuild or throw a bit of money at it with a view to a reliable 400/400 build.
Will have the short block stripped and inspected in the first instance though then weigh up the options.
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Jambo
Member
Registered: 8th Sep 01
Location: Maidenhead, Drives: VXR Arctic
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400/400 will drop squaddies knickers from 200yards.
Do it, only live once dude
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Chris x
Member
Registered: 11th Sep 08
Location: Bexhill
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Jambo
400/400 will drop squaddies knickers from 200yards.
Do it, only live once dude
+1
If your going to do it, you may aswel do it properly!
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SetH
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Registered: 15th Jul 01
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Yes spent a lot of time thinking about it this week. I am not one for loans so would probably purchase all the parts over the next few months. She might not be back on the road till next Spring though 
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Jambo
Member
Registered: 8th Sep 01
Location: Maidenhead, Drives: VXR Arctic
User status: Offline
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Will go soon enough.
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SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
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Engine was removed today. Tim Farmer said it was the cleanest classic that he has ever worked on
Next stage is to strip the UK Turbo block and the STI8 block and see what we have got to work with.
Will then have to make some decisions. Still unsure how much Money I want to plough into it.
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Darryl H
Organiser: South Central
Premium Member
Registered: 19th Nov 09
Location: Camberley Drives: Porsche 944
User status: Offline
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Great work! I love this car
|My Corsa|SC|My Instagram|
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SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Darryl H
Great work! I love this car
Thanks but i dont atm
I think I was very unlucky with this, i bought this as a long term ownership proposition and intended to keep up the detailing and keep her mint.
If I wanted a big power car I would have bought an old STi and thrown a few k at the engine/chassis.
need to do some serious thinking about where I want to go with it next. 
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AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
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just fire in an engine and get on with it  Any engine is better than a lump of shit on the drive (i.e a decent STi 4,5,6 lump)
Dont spend ages dribbling over wank like parralled fuel mods, CDF racing pullies etc.... a solid 'working' 300BHP will but much more useful than a 400bhp build in progres. Try and focus on stuff that is NEEDED rather than stuff that ticks boxes that other folk say you need.
Real world my car (impreza) isnt that quick but it kicks most cars on track - i.e its focused. Its only gucci parts are the EXE-TC and to be honest I dont rate them  pish!
My engine (shortblock) was only about 3k (built Lateral Performance CDB 2.1 stroker, RCM oil pump, new Modine, forged rods and pistons good for 550bhp or so)
Heads - spent a bit more than i should have perhaps - second hand cams and worked heads - new valve gear etc - 1k
I'm still running OE gearbox (STi V4)
If you need stuff I have a couple of blocks and sets of heads (condition may be useless)
Ex ZEN engine - RCM forged pistons (0.5mm oversize), SMG worked head - STI V3 cams - Not even stripped this engine yet but it spun a bearing (swarf in sump) Made 380bhp with an AFP 20G. Best case needs a new crank and a clean - worst case semi CDB is scrap, rods are scrap etc
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SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
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Hi Adam,
Totally hear what you are saying, I don't need a parallel fuel rail mod or racing pullies etc etc.
I spoke to Tim about using TY54 Gearboxes as disposables and he thought it was quite a good strategy. I don't like the six speed ratio's, too involving.
The STi block has version 9 Crank and Rods so might get that block rehoned, put some forged pistons in and ACL race bearings. Should be able to do all that on a reasonable budget and seems the 'level headed' option.
Will wait until he has stripped both blocks and see where we are. Might pilfer some of your goodies. Do you have any close up pics of the Pistons?
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SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
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Cant believe you don't rate the EXE-TC rob who owns the 'robstopper' is running them and really rates them.
part ex my Prodrive Bilsteins/eibachs for them?
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AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
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it might just be mine are soft sprung...
I got them custom valved and different (harder) rates from the factory - but i still think i'd benifit from having them firmer. Dont get me wrong, they are VERY good. Ride kerbs well etc.
Just think there are possibly cheaper things out there that will be just as good. £2.5kish inc top mounts.
For example I would 100% go for TEIN RS Circuit master if I did it again.
Pistons - I did somewhere - but only the crowns as they are still in their bores not DET marks etc. I'll have a look
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SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
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Right both blocks have been stripped and here are the results :
UK Turbo Block
- Big End bearing on Cylinder number 3 had gone, everything else is tip top.
Newage STi Block
- This actually has the version 9 nitrided STi Crank. The block came from an STi V8 but was a replacement warranty engine so obviously a later spec.
- 3 of the Forged Wiseco Pistons are Toast
- Block will need rehoning and Pistons to Suit
- Conrods all good
- Big end and Main bearings all good
There are 3 Options here that I discussed with Tim and given his experience at Zen he has my full attention and I am listening to him and not teh interwebz :
Prices are rough estimate and where £0 is indicated this means I already have this component and it was zero cost to myself.
1) Cost Effective Solution
Block - UK Turbo Phase 2 Open Deck Block =£0
MY99/00 - Standard Pistons = £0
STi V9 - Nitrided Crank = £0
STi V9 - Conrods = £0
ACL Big End Bearings = 100
ACL Main Bearings = 150
Modine = 170
Exedy Pink Uprated Clutch (anti Judder) £300
Reuse existing lighteweight flywheel = £0
Sundries L Oil, Fiilters,NGK7b Plugs, x2 headgaskets etc = £300
10 hours labour = £350
This set up will be good for a safe 350bhp, the limiting factor here will be the Pistons. On 97 Ron the car made 335/315 hoping for around 340 on V Power.
Estimated Price £1400-1500
2) Mid Range Solution
Sti V9 - Semi Closed Deck Block =£0
Block rehoned and Forged Pistons to suit £180 + 600 = £780
STi V9 - Nitrided Crank = £0
STi V9 - Conrods = £0
ACL Big End Bearings = 100
ACL Main Bearings = 150
Modine = 170
Sundries L Oil, Fiilters,NGK7b Plugs, x2 headgaskets etc = £300
10 hours labour = £350
Cost of engine build = 1900-2000
To support 400+ bhp
Exedy Hyper Twin Plate clutch & lightened Fly Wheel = £1300
MY03+ 6 Speed box, prop & crade = £2000-2500
MD321H Turbo = £1300
740cc Injectors = £500
Full Remap = £250
Estimated cost circa £5000
3. Lateral Performance 2.1 Stroker Kit
These kits are on offer from lateral and start around £1800 inc VAT
+ all the 400+ mod listed above or slight variations thereof.
Price = A LOT OF MONEY!
The figures might not add up, I have been doing financials all day for one of my Projects at work so my head hurts.
I think this is a no brainer!!
Looking at what it will cost to get a reliable 400/400 car I dont think I can justify it.
There is no point using the SCB and rehoning/adding forged pistons as I will never be shooting for 400.
Probably go with Option 1, wether I keep her or not is another question.
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corsa_breeze88
Member
Registered: 12th Jan 11
User status: Offline
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ask on scoobynet there are alot of people on there that know what there talking about when it comes to subarus rather than peoples opinions who drives corsa's. id go with a safe 350 and easy target to get to without alot of work and money, it can be achieved with a vf34 and vf35 or 18g on a safe boost setting
[Edited on 31-08-2011 by corsa_breeze88]
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SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
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I am not asking Corsa Owners for advice although there are quite a few Scooby Owners on here. As Adam builds TA Cars his input is always appreciated as its 'real life experience'.
Have been a Member of Scoobynet since 2003 and agree that there are quite a few people on there that really know there stuff and are helpful. Unfortunately there are also a lot of Sheep on there copying and pasting what they have seen someone else say.
I've taken advice from David at Api, Mark at Lateral and Tim Farmer whom is actually doing the build. The parts are coming from Lateral so confident I've obtained the right advice and sourced quality components.
Am going for Option 1
- Reuse Phase 2 Block
- Reuse MY00 Pistons as they are all good and I wont be going over 340 bhp now
- STi 9 Nitrided Crank which cost me nothing
- STI 9 Conrods which cost me nothing
- ACL race main bearings
- ACL race big end bearings
- Headgaskets & Cambelt Kit from Lateral
- New Modine
- Exedy uprated pink box clutch (anti judder)
- Perrin 3 port boost solenoid (only because the OEM one is suspect)
- Tweak to the map once it is run in (Apexi management)
I thought long and hard about using the STi Semi closed deck block and having it rehoned with forged pistons to suit but this would add circa £800 to the build price. I will now sell the block which will go towards the budget.
I am never going to go for more power now so would see it as a waste of money future proofing it for 400+
So all in all a cheap but fit for purpose rebuild.
Highly likely I will sell her and surely will be one of the better classics on the market and confident I will get good Money for her.
[Edited on 02-09-2011 by SetH]
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Jon_C
Premium Member
Registered: 7th Dec 05
Location: Suffolk
User status: Offline
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Why fix it just to sell?
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SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Jon_C
Why fix it just to sell?
Because its worth 2k as it is and circa 6k with a rebuilt engine perhaps
To be fair you see a lot of Japanese performance cars for sale on PH which have literally just had an engine rebuild.
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SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
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Rebuilt Short Motor was fitted yesterday. Dry Cranked the engine and 6 bar oil pressure so was looking good. Started her up, all running well with no problems or niggling issues! quite impressed to be fair was expecting maybe a few running problems etc. A testament to my Engine Builder and all those Years at Zen I guess 
Went with Option 1 and added a new MAF sensor (MY99 prone to failure) as a safety measure.
Going to run her gently over the next 500 miles on a 10w 40 semi synth at 0.9 bar and only up to 5k rpm (short bursts on boost and lots of engine braking advised by Tim). Going on the rollers Monday to check fueling etc but all gauges/apexi shows that everything is running well within parameters. Was not expecting to need a map tweak as effectively nothing has really changed except for some different internals in the short block.
Tim advised to switch to a fully synth at 500 miles then crank boost back up to 1.4 bar and health check on Rollers and tweak map if necessary.
I cant believe how quiet the engine is, no more noisy big end bearings just a lovely smooth flat four burble.
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SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
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Pre Winter Detail
Ok I started this last Week and finished today. I dont expect to take the Scoob out much this Winter but thought whilst we have the Weather would be a good Time to do a pre winter detail.
Arches & Wheels
I am not one for 'Before' pictures anymore as find it too time consuming! So here are some after pics of the Wheels and Arches.
Products used :
Meguairs De Greaser and Meguairs All purpose Cleaner used on Arches, Shocks and Calipers.
Meguairs wheel brightener, Tardis, Poor boys wheel sealent used on Wheels.
Mothers Tyre & Rubber Cleaner and Mothers Tyre Shine used on Tyres.
Exhaust
Meguirs NXT Generation All Metal Polish used on exhaust
[Edited on 01-10-2011 by SetH]
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SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
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Exterior Detail
1) Washed with Meguairs gold class shampoo used 2 bucket method and Microfibre Mit
2) Clayed with Sonus SFX Ultra Fine Detailing Clay (Meguairs last touch as lube)
3) x 2 Layers of Poor boys White Diamond Show Glaze
4) x 2 Layers of Poor boys Nattys Paste Wax
She previously had a Major Detail back in April so nothing too hardcore needed this Time.
Im not happy with the lighting, Sun was very low. If I do sell her will probably do some shopping mall car park pics for better lighting.
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AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
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good to see it back....
PS - Shopping Mall
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SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
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LOL yes, theres a newish one in Norwich with really good lighting! good for getting reflections.
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