Subaru Impreza WRX STI *SOLD* - Corsa Sport - for Vauxhall and Opel Corsa B, Corsa C and Corsa D

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Kyle T

Premium Member

Registered: 11th Sep 04
Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 18:40

quote:
Originally posted by GB123

quote:
Originally posted by Jambo
External reservoir dampers

Like on a clio trophy

I prefer to tell people "like a touring car" but Clio Trophy works too

Lotus Elise 111R

Impreza WRX STi

GB123

Premium Member

Registered: 21st Nov 11
Location: Kent
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 18:46

Definitely sounds cooler

chris_uk

Premium Member

Registered: 8th Jul 03
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 19:08

having little droop is bad.. not good.

when you go over a bump you don't want the wheel to be leaving the ground because it doesn't have enough droop.. the suspension should always a decent amount of droop so the wheel can stay in contact with the road.

Kyle T

Premium Member

Registered: 11th Sep 04
Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 19:26

My comment was just explaining that the droop amount almost matched my previous loaded ride height. There's still a good inch or two difference between loaded and unloaded now. Compare the bottom picture with the third from bottom.

Lotus Elise 111R

Impreza WRX STi

chris_uk

Premium Member

Registered: 8th Jul 03
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 19:30

yea, but you are not going to keep that ride height are you? going from your above comments you are planning on raising your car a little. the more you raise it, the less droop you will get and little amounts of droop can be bad..

Kyle T

Premium Member

Registered: 11th Sep 04
Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 19:33

Trying to get my head around how raising the height will impact the droop. I'm not saying you're wrong but I just can't figure it out

I've got two things I can adjust on the actual shock body, spring preload and ride height. I have a guide somewhere on the preload setup, maybe the previous owner had the preload cranked up a bit which would reduce droop so maybe room to improve there.

Lotus Elise 111R

Impreza WRX STi

BeetleGav

Member

Registered: 27th Jun 10
Location: lancashire, nelson
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 19:38

Looks cracking now! I certainly approve of the ride height

chris_uk

Premium Member

Registered: 8th Jul 03
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 19:58

if you jack your car up on axle stands the wheels droop lets say 100mm from arch to top of tyre..

if you put the car on the ground and the gap is 10mm from arch to tyre, you have 90mm droop

if you raise the car up and you are now running 50mm from arch to tyre then you only have 50mm of droop.

[Edited on 10-08-2013 by chris_uk]

Nic Barnes

Member

Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 20:12

pmsl at cat-devo comment

Kyle T

Premium Member

Registered: 11th Sep 04
Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 20:30

quote:
Originally posted by chris_uk
if you jack your car up on axle stands the wheels droop lets say 100mm from arch to top of tyre..

if you put the car on the ground and the gap is 10mm from arch to tyre, you have 90mm droop

if you raise the car up and you are now running 50mm from arch to tyre then you only have 50mm of droop.

[Edited on 10-08-2013 by chris_uk]

I thought that the droop was purely the difference between the preloaded spring length and the spring length whilst under the weight of the car? The coilovers have got a locking ring thingy which acts as the lower spring seat, when that's wound up - the spring "preloaded" position becomes shorter meaning that the difference between preloaded and car loaded is smaller, hence smaller droop. If the locking ring is wound down towards the base of the coilover, the spring length is extended hence the difference between the preload and carload is greater... meaning more droop.

The spring preload doesn't change when I alter the ride height, so not sure why the droop would?

Interestingly, whilst having my dinner the seller PM'd me on Scoobynet. I'd PM'd him earlier in the day out of courtesy to say the suspension was on and first impressions were good:

quote:
Originally posted by Previous Owner

quote:
Originally posted by Kyle T
Installed without issues, first impressions are very good

Need to sort alignment out once I've fitted roll centre adjust kit. I've stuck with your ride height initially but think I'll raise it a touch before settling into it.

excellent get the rides and preloads done properly as it was adjusted for oulton park drift circuit . so will be miles out for track ...

you need to get the ride 350mm from centre of hub/wheel to the wing. and rear same to 345mm
perfect height so everthing undercar is sat right and works as it should

So without any prompting from myself, he's already suggested that the preload needs changing and also backs me up with my theory of 35cm being about the right ride height for these cars

To be fair though, the roll centre kit would allow me to go as low as I am now without compromise.

I did a quick Google and found a YouTube video of a BC rep changing a spring and setting the preload. He wound the locking ring to the bottom so the spring was loose, then tightened up 4mm. Said that's the right preload for the "street" so I guess a good place for me to start.

[Edited on 10-08-2013 by Kyle T]

Lotus Elise 111R

Impreza WRX STi

chris_uk

Premium Member

Registered: 8th Jul 03
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 20:45

droop is the difference between the shock being fully compressed and uncompressed.

so if you raise your car the piston is going to be pushed out of the tube, so if it sits at 50/50 (in/out) it has 50% travel left before its fully uncompressed (rebound) and 50% before its compressed (bump).

lets for arguments sake say that your car as it is now is 50/50 but its too low and you want to take the car up, the higher you wind the spring collar the more the piston is going to be uncompressed (the spring pushed the piston out of its tube) so if you raise the car up your available droop gets less.

Kyle T

Premium Member

Registered: 11th Sep 04
Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 20:56

If I'm understanding your posts correctly, you're assuming that rideheight is adjusted by simply compressing (lower) or uncompressing (higher) the spring using the preload adjustment?

The spring preload and damper travel is not impacted by the ride height on these coilovers.

The locking collar(s) under the spring impact the preload as you've described, but the ride height is changed by loosening the bottom locking ring and winding the actual damper/spring assembly into or out of the base which connects to the hub. That way damping, travel, rebound and droop is all maintained across different ride heights.

This video demonstrates it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiiId9lsgno

Lotus Elise 111R

Impreza WRX STi

Steve

Premium Member

Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 21:00

How do you adjust height when on the car

Kyle T

Premium Member

Registered: 11th Sep 04
Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 21:02

Same way as in the video, spin the threaded portion of the coilover into the base. The base is stationary because it's attached to the hub, but the rest of it is all connected to the topmount in a pillowball mount thingy which allows it to spin.

Lotus Elise 111R

Impreza WRX STi

chris_uk

Premium Member

Registered: 8th Jul 03
User status: Offline

10th Aug 13 at 21:14

right, i got ya..

i was assuming it was the same as my coilovers.

Kyle T

Premium Member

Registered: 11th Sep 04
Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
User status: Offline

11th Aug 13 at 18:24

Up bright and early to finish the suspension off in preparation for alignment.

My targets for the day, trackrod ends and lower balljoints:

Both items were held on with those castle nut things and a locking pin. The pins were a nightmare to get out as they'd pretty much rusted into place. After much swearing I ended up sheering off the pins either side of the nut and then rattle gunned them off. This disintegrated the rest of the pin and the nut came off easy

Once the nut was off the trackrod end, getting it out of the hub was another story. I had bought a balljoint seperator (one of those fork thingies) but it was hopeless. Did a bit of googling on the phone and read I should just batter the fuck out of the hub to shock the bolt out. Sceptical, I went to work and within seconds it just fell out

You can imagine the majority of the damage was from my balljoint seperator, but the boot was still leaking grease before I even started work so clearly ready for replacement anyway.

Next onto the balljoint, the castlenut came off much quicker with my new trick and once the ARB droplink was detatched the control-arm was lowered down and away from the balljoint. The balljoint was held upside-down in the hub in a cup type thing, with a 14mm bolt pinching it in place.

The bolt rattlegunned out no worries, but getting the balljoint out of it's cup was a bit more difficult. I ended up threading on the castlenut again, getting a big old flathead screwdriver and resting it on the nut - then braying the crap out of it with a hammer again.

It inched out, but finally got it separated:

The black cone needed transferring from old to new.

Pieced the passenger side back together pretty quickly, with no real care spent on lining the tracking up for fairly obvious reasons.

Driver side was a pretty drama-less repeat other than the cat escaping the house half way through. Pussy under control, driver side put back together: