Adam
Member
Registered: 1st May 01
Location: Hurstbourne Tarrant
User status: Offline
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Amplifer wiring
You need –
1) Amplifier wiring kit – prices vary depending on quality of wiring.
2) Socket set - should get a cheap one for £10
3) T41 torx head socket - halford - £4
4) Crimpers - asda £1.50
First of all this is by no means the best or worst way to wire an amp – but it’s a way that worked fine for me. It should take around 2 hours.
The wiring kit will come with 4 wires. One power cable. One earth cable. One remote cable. And one set of RCA cable.
First stage is to disconnect the battery. Then move inside the car and remove interior panels so you can run wiring underneath them neatly and hidden. Using a hex head screwdriver remove the door sills on both sides of the car. There should be about 8 screws holding these panels down – screws are shown by the red dots below…
Then remove the head unit and connect in the RCA cables into the pre out on the back. Then secure this cable underneath the dash on the driver side and run it underneath the door sill and down the side of the back seat into the boot.
Then find the blue cable labelled REMOTE on the head unit wiring loom and using bullet connectors attach this to the blue remote cable that came in the wiring kit. Run this wire down the passenger side of the car underneath the door sills and into the boot.
Next up the earth wire this can be connected to various points, a good one being the seat back bolts in the boot. This can be found behind a removable triangle shaped plastic panel on each side of the boot. Remove this panel and using the T41 tord head socket undo one of the bolts holding the seat back in place. Take the earth cable and try and fit a the removed screw through the larger holed connecter on the end of the cable. If it doesn’t fit just make the hole a bit bigger using a file. Then place this connecter between the metal bracket and the screw and tighten this back up.
Nearly there now, just the positive wire to go. Most kits come with in wire fuses so this makes wiring a bit easier. Attach the larger holed connecter onto the positive terminal. Then the hard bit – feeding this wire into the car through the grommet in the bulk head.
Inside the car remove the under glove box shelf if you have one – this will give you some more space to work with. Look carefully where the shelf was and you will see a black rubber ‘grommet’ about 2inches in diameter. As shown on the photo below…
Open the bonnet and look just to the left of the battery behind the coolant reservoir and you should see the other side of the rubber grommet. Go back inside the car and using a thin sharp implement about 5inches long poke through the rubber as far as you can e.g. a file or a bodger. With a bit of patience you should be able to make the whole quite large, then repeat this process with increasing size screwdrivers. Once you think the hole is large enough for the wire to go through, selotape the end of the power cable to a screwdriver and poke through the grommet into the car. Then pull the cable from inside. Feed this cable through the passenger side door sill next to the remote wire and into your boot.
Grommet in engine bay –
You know have all the relevant wires in place in the boot and now you simply have to connect them up to your amp. The RCA leads go into the colour coded labelled plugs. Then the power lead, remote wire and earth should all be simple enough to fit into the labelled corresponding connections.
Reconnect the battery and turn on the ignition. Go check you amp has a power light showing. If so it’s all gone smoothly and its no time to wire up your speakers or amp to the amplifier. This again is relatively straight forward simply run speaker wire from the labelled terminals on the amplifier to your speakers or sub.
Sit back relax and play around with the settings on the amp and head unit until you get the sound you want.
Submitted by koolkorsa
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