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Author Electrical Question - wiring in cooker
BigSte
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Registered: 27th Aug 02
Location: Sheffield
User status: Offline
2nd Oct 08 at 15:39   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I gathered about turning the mains switch off....I was just a little worried about playing around inside cos there is obviously live wires going in there from the main electric supply into the house!

I'm quite skint at the minute so don't fancy upgrading the whole box...... where can I get one of these breakers? Do you have the model number or owt like that?

Out of interest, how much would a full unit cost?
Russ
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Registered: 14th Mar 04
Location: Armchair
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2nd Oct 08 at 19:33   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

a new consumer unit is about £30 from B&Q
BigSte
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Registered: 27th Aug 02
Location: Sheffield
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2nd Oct 08 at 21:29   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

really!!! Will have to get one of those I reckon. How much you reckon a sparky would charge to fit it? I will take the wires through from the kitchen for the cooker so all he will have to do is connect all the consumer unit up!
C2RL R
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Registered: 28th Mar 02
Location: Redcliffe, QLD
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2nd Oct 08 at 23:25   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

You wont get what you need for 30 quid mate. I'll price some bits up for you tomorra.
BigSte
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Registered: 27th Aug 02
Location: Sheffield
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3rd Oct 08 at 07:44   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

nice one mate - much appreciated
AK
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Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
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3rd Oct 08 at 09:18   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

jesus...

you dont know the basics and your DIYing

Also - no one has even mentioned, or told him what grade/rating of cable to fit.
BigSte
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Registered: 27th Aug 02
Location: Sheffield
User status: Offline
3rd Oct 08 at 09:21   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Carl already mentioned.......4mm twin and earth.

I know a lot when it comes to DIYing, just not too shit hot with electrics
C2RL R
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Registered: 28th Mar 02
Location: Redcliffe, QLD
User status: Offline
3rd Oct 08 at 10:36   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

you could get away with putting in 2.5mm tbh. its borderline though so best go for 4mm. 4mm is still pretty easy to work with.
John
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Registered: 30th Jun 03
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3rd Oct 08 at 10:44   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

There's what looks like a failry substantial consumer unit in b&q atm for £100 quid.
C2RL R
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Registered: 28th Mar 02
Location: Redcliffe, QLD
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3rd Oct 08 at 11:26   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Right mate i've had a word with the wholesaler i use and we've put together a list of MK parts for the job. We've gone for MK as B&Q stock them and i'm assuming thats where you'll probably go. the prices are based on my suppliers pices though so will vary slightly compared with rip off B&Q!


Firstly you need the main enclosure. We've gone for an 8 way split-load unit so it will come with a 100amp double pole switch (for isolating the supply) and also a 63amp RCD (residual current device).
8 way split-load CCU - Part number - MK K5682s - £41.13

Next you need your breakers to go in the enclosure. You already have 5amp,16amp and 32amp breakers. you'll need to replace these and also fit the new 20amp breaker for the cooker. when you fit them in the enclosure you should put the 16amp, 20amp and 32amp on the RCD side. the 5 amp should go on its own as its for light lighting circuit. new regulations say that the lighting circuit should be RCD protected also. therefore you should use an RCBO for this instead of a standard MCB. (sorry for the abreviations).

6amp RCBO 30mA - part number - MK 6932s - £37.19
16amp MCB - part number - MK 5916s - £3.53
20amp MCB - part number - MK 5920s - £3.53
32amp MCB - part number - MK 5932s - £3.53

total = £88.91

compared with £50 for a single 20amp breaker for your current CCU i know what i'd go for. with the gear listed above you'll meet current regulations, you'll have room for future expansion, and replacement parts wont cost you your left bollock.
BigSte
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Registered: 27th Aug 02
Location: Sheffield
User status: Offline
3rd Oct 08 at 11:55   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

That is unbelieveably helpful mate...... will definitely be getting the new unit rather than messing about with the old one, as £90 for the lot seems quite reasonable.

As soon as the cost of borrowing comes down and things get a little more stable I'm planning on an extension to the house anyway so that would mean more upgrades to the electrics no doubt.

Also, if I feed the wiring under the house from the cooker and just leave it unattached near the existing box, how much do you reckon I should be paying a sparky to change the unit?
C2RL R
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Registered: 28th Mar 02
Location: Redcliffe, QLD
User status: Offline
3rd Oct 08 at 12:41   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

i wouldn't like to commit myself to giving an answer to that buddy! i've not done domestic work for a long time so i'm not sure on the current rates. the thing that makes it more expensive is the testing side of it. in recent years the safety regulations in domestics have become very strict. regulations say that the person who does the installation and testing needs to be part p registered which means its gonna cost you a lot! if i have a guess id say about £150-£250 to swap the unit and do a full test.
BigSte
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Registered: 27th Aug 02
Location: Sheffield
User status: Offline
3rd Oct 08 at 12:49   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

fookin eck!!! will look into it!
C2RL R
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Registered: 28th Mar 02
Location: Redcliffe, QLD
User status: Offline
3rd Oct 08 at 13:06   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

its not a straight forward job anymore. thats why it cost so much. he'll have to fit the new unit, inspect the earth bonding, test, certify, rectify any faults and retest if applicable.
mattk
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Registered: 27th Feb 06
Location: St. Helens
User status: Offline
3rd Oct 08 at 16:59   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

tut, people wanting something for nothing
BigSte
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Registered: 27th Aug 02
Location: Sheffield
User status: Offline
3rd Oct 08 at 17:20   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I don't mind paying for anything, just don't like paying over the odds.....

a Trician recently put my sisters shower into her CCU so I'll give him a bell, see what he will charge!
ash_corsa
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Registered: 15th Apr 04
Location: Shrewsbury
User status: Offline
3rd Oct 08 at 17:26   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

If you dont know what a main switch and an MCB are, leave it the fuck alone and get a qualified electrician to sort it out.
20A MCB, 6mm2 T+E from CCU to 45A DP Cooker isolator, then another 6mm2 to your cooker.

C2RL R
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Registered: 28th Mar 02
Location: Redcliffe, QLD
User status: Offline
4th Oct 08 at 07:36   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

he already has a 20amp dp switch so 4mm cable is fine.
scottmmw
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Registered: 9th Aug 05
Location: Brotton, Cleveland
User status: Offline
4th Oct 08 at 15:52   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

we got a new unit for £100 fitted IIRC.
RichR
Premium Member

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Registered: 17th Oct 01
Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
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4th Oct 08 at 19:26   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I pay my sparkie £10 an hour and he works like a trooper; We'll have a quick run through at the start of the jobs and he'll tell me what cables to run where.

I run them all, supply all the parts and he then comes out and does the bit I'm not technically allowed to. I've learned so much from him and he doesn't take the piss with his hours either. I know full well he's done nearer 2 hours sometimes and only charged for 1 etc. Try and get a sparkie into you collection of friends - its always useful

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