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Author Corsa B - Engine can't stay ON !
Budykiller
Member

Registered: 24th Sep 09
User status: Offline
   24th Sep 09 at 19:46   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Hello all.

I hope finding some help here, and i can say i already have (lots of usefull things here) so i'm glad !
yes, i'm french and i must admit people on our forum are not ready to help, and it's often like this for many topics...

So here i am.

Who am I ?
Corsa B (1999), 1.0 12V, X10XE engine, Fuel, 84000 km.


What's the car life ?
I'm taking my car to go to work 4 times a day. From my house, it's only 4 or 5 km away ! It means, really really short drives everyday, not good for the engine.
i'm not driving fastly, really not, so it's not a good point too !
To illustrates, i made 24 000km in 3 years. So not even 10 000km a year...


What's wrong ?
It's been a year now since i encountered my problems. From a year, until about last 2 weeks, my Corsa had difficulties at the first start in the morning, and occasionaly at the second start around 12am or at 18pm. In fact, everytime i get back from work to my house.
The engine is ON really fast, the idle is alright, and this, all the time. But when i start to drive, the first 1 or 2 minutes are a pain in the neck. The car have misfire between the 1 and 2 gear, and the 2 and 3 gear. The worst is between the 2 and 3 !! When passing from 2 to 3, as soon as i puch the accelerator, even if i put all my weight on it, the car have misfire, like if i would run out of gaz ! This happens at low RMPH, above it's OK. Sometimes i need to go back to 1 so i can put the accelerator nicely and after 1 or 2 minutes of pain, everything is OK !! The accelerator starts to react quickly, and the car go fast.
The car don't have any problem and work like a charm (well, it's still very slow with the accelerator but nothing that avoid me driving).
All this doesn't happen all the time. I can tell you that when the weather is bad and cold, it happened nearly all the time. But for example, this summer, i didn't have any problems for 2 months !!! When it's warm or clean, no problems.
Note : no lights on the dashboard at anytime.
Note 2 : i went to a car mechanic, and it didn't have any faults code (but i don't know if he owned a Tech2, damn).


What's wrong since 2 weeks now ?
Well, now it's really scary. The engine starts quickly, the idle works for 5 seconds and we can hear the engine getting higher as it should, but instead of keeping the idle like this, it starts to decrease dramaticaly in 1 or 2 seconds, and the car starts to have vibrations, the engine chokes like he would stall.
The first week, i bypass this state by forcing the engine to drive.
But now, it's really difficult to drive. From 1 week now, the car stalls. If i play with the accelerator, i think i can make it work but i didn't try to prevent any troubles.

What are the symptoms ?
- Engine starts quickly
- Idle doesn't seem to work (goes high normally but decrease instantly and then it chokes)
- Vibrations when the car is choking
- from the beginning since 1 year, low response at acceleration (especially at low RMPH)
- for me, after all my tests, it stinks FUEL, like if there was some on the ground (not the case).


What i did ?
- cleaning of the throttle body (really dirty !!!) and everything that was around (i gently cleaned the idle valve, looks like this
- http://www.bs-autotune.nl/pics/site/idlestepper.jpg)
- disconnect the MAF plug -> doesn't change anything
- redisconnect the MAF plug the day after, but this time i left the battery for 30mn so it cleared all the eventually faulty errors -> no changes
- a few minutes ago, i tested the ECT Sensor. I took it appart from the engine, took my multimeter (push it to Ohm), and it gave me "2.21". Don't know if it's good or not. Then i boiled some coolant and put a few part of the sensor in it, and this time it gave me "1.41". Once again, don't know if it's good but at least, the value decreases when the temp is higher, so it should be alright.


Now, what i'm gonna do ?
I don't know, i'm lost !! I don't know shit about mechanics and motors, and what i already did is just simply amazing. Well, what a pitty nothing worked but anyway.

Now, i would like to know if the problem could come from the Coil Spark ? Like if the engine was running on 2 cyl instead of 3 ? I don't know if it could be possible as the engine always starts nicely but then is fucked up 5 or 6 seconds after.

Maybe the injectors ? But i'm doubting, well i don't know nothing about mechanics but the facts that it stincks fuel made me think they aren't blocked.

If nothing about the coil spark, i would be then doubting of the Lambda Sensor or the fuckin EGR valve. it seemed to be the source of a lots of problem.


I'm asking everybody, can someone help me or show me the way to identify what could be wrong, so maybe i can go to a char mechanic without beeing robed once again ?

Thank you very much. If you want any pictures of the car, just ask me.
Joe
Member

Registered: 20th Jun 04
Location: Hesketh Bank, Lancashire
User status: Offline
24th Sep 09 at 19:50   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Have you tried a new MAF sensor? Symptoms point towards that direction....
Budykiller
Member

Registered: 24th Sep 09
User status: Offline
24th Sep 09 at 20:02   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

hello Joe, thanks for your reply.

No, i don't.
I thought that by disconnecting the plug from the MAF, if it was faulty then the car should be at least a little better then, but it wasn't the case when i tested it.

Could the MAF even beeing disconnected be a source of problems ?

Then i'll need to find a running one to make a test.
Or maybe i can try to clean it ?
Thanks
Ian
Site Administrator

Avatar

Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
User status: Online
24th Sep 09 at 20:41   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Welcome.

You may have faults recorded even without engine management light.

Do you have access to a Tech2?
Budykiller
Member

Registered: 24th Sep 09
User status: Offline
24th Sep 09 at 20:48   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I will tell you tomorrow.
The problem is that the opel specialist is at 1 hour away from my house ! So i don't know if my car could make it there. Then it will cost me money for the fuel, and then for the Tech2 analyze.

I'll call them tomorrow to see if they have a char mechanic in my town that own a tech2.

The fact is that 1 week before i was about to sell this car, the big problems occured. Now i'm trying to fix it but for the moment i try to keep as much money as i can.

If there's no Tech2 around, i'll see. We will need to go on anyway, right ? so..
Thanks
Budykiller
Member

Registered: 24th Sep 09
User status: Offline
25th Sep 09 at 09:57   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Bad news...
The char mechanic i went to doesn't own a Tech2. It's a multifirm code reader, so... it probably could have not been allowed to read everything !!

And there is no other Tech2 beside the Opel specialist at 1hour away from my house

Could it be a MAF problem ? Because i can get one on ebay for about 50€. This is the same price as going to the specialist just to read a possible error code because it's possible that there is none.

Do i really must take the car to the specialist for the Tech2 analyze ?

Thanks everyone.
FruitBooTeR
Member

Registered: 18th Jan 07
Location: Wolverhampton Drives: S15
User status: Offline
25th Sep 09 at 10:49   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Sounds like AFM/MAF to me mate, id try one of them.
Richie
Member

Registered: 3rd Dec 02
Location: Newport, Wales
User status: Offline
27th Sep 09 at 15:54   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Have you unplugged the lamdba sensor and taken it for a drive?

The faults you are describing can be caused by so many things, the X10XE is a poorly designed engine.

They also had a habot of the cooltant temperature sensor wires breaking and there is a Vauxhall kit to correct this. It's so many things that you would be best off taking it to a dealership to fix

 
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