taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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the imp is now at the stage where i can simply unbolt the engine and gearbox and pull it out. the problem is i think if we are to make our own cage its best off made with the engine in and the doors fitted.
as it will be tagged to the pillers where possible aswell then it should make a great brace to stop the body distorting/twisting whilst fitting new parts/replacing sills ect.
My mate is a metalworker/fabricator and will be bending the pipe and welding and measuring.... basicly im shit and hes making it.
Anyone ever made thier own cage?
what thickness pipe did you use? im thinking 40mm with a 2 or 3 mm wall
is there any certain points to adhere to? like a recipe of angles ect?
i was thinking of something like this
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_L_gmO1xMx3I/TQhwEXXvfrI/AAAAAAAAJqk/nPgqGPxR2tc/s1600/IMG_3694.JPG
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_L_gmO1xMx3I/TQhxIafjVgI/AAAAAAAAJqo/ikZcRRXLpRg/s1600/IMG_3695.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TA_-lH2LMMs/TXncbpMFN_I/AAAAAAAAKJ4/De05bcc42Qc/IMG_5607.JPG
im hoping the horizontal bar nearest the rear (between the arches) could be used as a harness bar?
[Edited on 14-12-2011 by Ian]
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richc
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Registered: 24th Mar 07
Location: Ilkeston
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Im not 100% but im sure everybody in motorsport uses 2mm wall. 3mm would be very heavy.
Its funny you put this thread up. A friend rang me about making one for his discovery, about an hour ago. Im looking at designs atm, as we will also be making it our selves.
40 up to 2 inch od seems fine. Everyone suggests using seamless tube as its 'stronger', but i cant see the issue for using it for offroading or the like.
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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i want to use 2mm wall for weight saving but wasnt sure if it would be ok... the one in my pics is probably a bit thicker than id like hence wanting to use 40mm tube
i will also have side/door bars as im getting fibreglass doors and want protection
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0775kieran
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Registered: 28th Apr 10
Location: Bolton, Greater Manchester
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Can be hard to make on your own would need to pack the tubes with sand or something as the pipe can kink when bending them.
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Ian
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Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
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For Stes and Mikes we bought the bent bits and made the straights. Wasn't confident getting the bends correct particularly where there is more than one on any single pipe.
Can't remember the spec, Ste or Mike may do. Also might be in the project threads -
http://www.corsasport.co.uk/board/viewthread.php?tid=586846&page=8
http://www.weekendracer.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=21934&page=2
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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cheers ian, he will probably make the bends seperate then join them using straights..
he has access to a proper jobby pipe bender
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Mike
Organiser: North West and North Wales
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Registered: 20th May 06
Location: nr. Skipton, North Yorkshire
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I think me and Ste are both the same, the pre-made bits are 45*2mm and the homemade sections are 40*2mm. No real reason for the thinner rear, it was just the standard size they offered.
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Ian
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Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
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quote:
Originally posted by john-d
he will probably make the bends seperate then join them using straights
Can you not source a suitable short cage? You only really need the roll hoop and windscreen pillar forwards. The other stuff can be fabbed.
Don't overlook how much work it is to prep your own bars. Buying at least a few properly cut parts will cut down the labour time considerably. I know you're not paying for that but if the job's a pain in the ass and you've been on it for days you're also more likely to tolerate bodges. Just gives you more energy for the rest of the build.
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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how long did it take you lot to measure up and fab it?
is there and special angles needed for strength?
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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i suggested buying a cheap cage and adapting but quicky learned cheap cages dont really exist.
i think hes pretty keen to make it from scratch tbh
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Ian
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Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
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It's a pain in the ass, because you can't measure the exact distance because the pipe needs to lap around the old one.
Particularly the case where you have irregular joins, ie. not 90 to the bar you're meeting.
That's why there's loads of pictures of us all with the reamer trimming the pipes back. And if you're really observant you'll notice that some of the shorter bars started life as longer bars that we (I) ballsed up 
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Ian
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Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
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quote:
Originally posted by john-d
i think hes pretty keen to make it from scratch tbh
See how he feels after a few days of getting in and out of the car to trim a few mm per time.
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taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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lol yea true, he wants paying in bud and grub so it will end up wonky anyway
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Mike
Organiser: North West and North Wales
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Registered: 20th May 06
Location: nr. Skipton, North Yorkshire
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Yeah, with mine I bought the front section (roll bar forward) which took probably 2-3 hours to weld in place including the feet, after that the rollbar to strut lengths where fairly simple, maybe an hour to an hour and half for the pair, the diagonals where more awkward probably more like 2 hours for those, 3/4s to an hour for the strut brace, same again for each door bar and then the harness bars I'm not sure on as I left that job to Ste who had done it before, they're really awkward because neither end is at 90 degrees and it's hard to get it straight.
Going off those times I've said, it was at best, 7 1/2 hours plus the harness bars but that was with the bends pre-made and the correct length, profiled ends etc.
Making it yourself is a ballache purely because when you're getting near you've got to work with such small margins and keep checking which after a while becomes so annoying it's unreal
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smcGSI16V
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Registered: 26th May 03
Location: Farnborough Drives: Thurlby 888 CDTi No.98
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Ideally you want the main hoop larger diameter tube compared to the rest of the cage, from experience of my cage and seeing others. Also you want to use cds tube aswell, so i believe.
But as Ian says you can buy the bends and add the straight bits imbetween or you can have a go at bending your own tube.
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Ian
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Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
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I was mean buying the entire bent part.
6 bends in that, all of which need to be in the correct place at the correct angle.
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Mike
Organiser: North West and North Wales
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Registered: 20th May 06
Location: nr. Skipton, North Yorkshire
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Custom Cages list the Hillman Imp so you'll be able to pick up their club kits no bother if you decide too.
http://www.customcages.co.uk/roll-cages/clubman-rollcages
It was the CL3 kit I bought which is literally all the sections with bends then you can add whatever straights you want.
[Edited on 25-08-2011 by Mike B]
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Ian
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Registered: 28th Aug 99
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^ which is also the approach I would recommend. Best balance of assistance with the difficult bits and the ability to save money where you can.
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antnee
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Registered: 30th Dec 07
Location: Cov Drives: Clio 197
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Mike can I ask how much you paid for your kit? Im thinking of doing a similar job, basic cage then extend.
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Ste
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Registered: 5th Mar 03
Location: Taif, Saudi Arabia
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The prices are on custom cages website. Mikes was the CL3.
I would rather lose by a mile because i built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me.
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Ian
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Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
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In fact there may be 7 bends in that roll hoop, there's also one in the middle.
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Mike
Organiser: North West and North Wales
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Registered: 20th May 06
Location: nr. Skipton, North Yorkshire
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I think the CL3 kit came to around £350 after VAT and postage had been added then it was £125ish for 7 lengths of CDS at 1.5m each although that can be had cheaper if you buy from a proper metals place in longer lengths.
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antnee
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Registered: 30th Dec 07
Location: Cov Drives: Clio 197
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quote:
Originally posted by Ste W
The prices are on custom cages website. Mikes was the CL3.
Doh, completely missed that 
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