Steve
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
User status: Offline
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A brake pipe union reducer
1/4" pipe - 3/16" pipe
found this
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/Brass_7%7C16%22_Male_Union_For_3%7C16_Pipe_BU716M
looks right but says 7/16" which if that refers to the pipe then its wrong, but iv seen that 1/4" pipe has some kind of reference to american 7/16 might be the thread or something who knows
First person gets a kiss
[Edited on 25-08-2011 by Steve]
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Cole
Member
Registered: 11th Nov 02
Location: eastbourne Drives:zafira sold now a qashqai
User status: Offline
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if youy wanted a reducer then surely it would be 3/8-1/4 not 1/4 - 3/8
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Steve
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
User status: Offline
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sorry typo, not 3/8, 3/16
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Steve
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
User status: Offline
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i think what iv linked is correct, i think the 7/16 might refer to the thread on it, iv ordered a couple they are cheap enough anyway, if anyone has any other ideas though
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Steve
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
User status: Offline
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right im pretty certain iv found a brake union that will work on my master cylinder, can anyone help me with this
at the moment the OEM setup is basically as follows
with 12mm unions at the master cylinder and thicker 1/4 inch pipe feeding the abs pump which then runs seperate piping to each corner using thinner 3/16 pipe.
Now what i would ideally like to do is rip out the abs pump etc and use 12mm unions at the master cylinder that reduce down to 3/16 pipe and do the lot in 3/16, like so
i need the following things answered though.
Is there any sort of bottle neck fucking the 1/4 inch pipe off for 3/16 through out.
also for the rear would i be better t Pieceing at the front of the car and running two seperate lines down for each rear corner, or doing what Ian has and running one 3/16 pipe down the car and t piecing off to each corner at the rear, as shown in this diagram
lastly is there any point in me using a manual bias valve when the biasing is done in the MC anyway
[Edited on 26-08-2011 by Steve]
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DaveyLC
Member
Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
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Why not reflare the pipes and fit new unions? Its a piece of piss.
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Gary
Premium Member
Registered: 22nd Nov 06
Location: West Yorkshire
User status: Offline
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Thorite will stOck them.
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Steve
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
User status: Offline
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what you on about daveylc thats no relevance to any of this lol, if you actually read what the problem is.
the original problem, that is no longer a problem as iv found a solution as detailed directly above your post, was that the master cylinder currently has 12mm metric male unions, with 1/4 inch pipe coming out of it which doesnt match anything t pieces, or 3/16 pipe that i currently own.
But I have sorted that now with a 12mm metric union that houses 3/16 pipe directly
http://www.ukclassicparts.com/shopexd.asp?id=715
the only outstanding problem was the best way to repipe inside the car, wether to send 1 3/16 pipe to the back and t piece from there, or t piece at the front of the vehicle and send 2 pipes to the rear.
From what iv found out though one pipe will be fine
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