Chris x
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Registered: 11th Sep 08
Location: Bexhill
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I have rust coming through where my bumper joins the rear quarter panel on both sides of my /////AMG.
It had the rear arches done in 2008 and in 2010 under warranty, which sounds like long time ago but it's been garaged since last year and done around 2000miles since 2010 - which is also coming back. 
With this in mind, I want to do the prep and priming my self. What is the best way to remove and stop rust coming back without cutting and re-welding the panel? So much rust preventative stuff on the market now and I don't know where to start.
You can get paint cans from Mercedes so may even give spraying a go myself, and if I fuck it up just put in a body shop.
W220 S Class' rust for fun. Like most Mercs from this era. Bastards!
Thanks  
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3CorsaMeal
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Registered: 11th Apr 02
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I'm using eastwood rust encapsulator and the rubberised version of it on mine.
One thing i've noted is wd40 or white spirit etc takes it off, so best to paint over it with body colour.
I also found the solvent in some products like stone chip and underbody wax dissolve the rust encapsulator paint as well, so i'm now painting over it it first.
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Chris x
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Registered: 11th Sep 08
Location: Bexhill
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by 3CorsaMeal
I'm using eastwood rust encapsulator and the rubberised version of it on mine.
One thing i've noted is wd40 or white spirit etc takes it off, so best to paint over it with body colour.
I also found the solvent in some products like stone chip and underbody wax dissolve the rust encapsulator paint as well, so i'm now painting over it it first.
Cheers Jim. So your confident that your body colour will be enough to protect it? Got any links or tips for prep and applying? Link to your project thread?
Don't think i'll get away with the rubberised version as it will probably be on show a bit
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Steve
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
User status: Offline
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Some form of rust converter, then zinc primer usually worked ok for me
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Chris x
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Registered: 11th Sep 08
Location: Bexhill
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Steve
Some form of rust converter, then zinc primer usually worked ok for me
Yeh, a bloke suggested this for the chassis on my old Land Rover:
http://www.tooled-up.com/product/rust-oleum-2185-hard-hat-cold-galvanising-zinc-aerosol-metal-spray-paint-500ml/130249/
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DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Chris x
You can get paint cans from Mercedes so may even give spraying a go myself, and if I fuck it up just put in a body shop.
It will look gammy as fuck if you paint it with rattle cans.
The only thing you can do to 100% stop it is source some galvanised new rear-quarters and have them fitted but it will cost fucking fortunes..
The next option is to have the rear quarters taken down to bare-metal, treated, zinc etched and then re-sprayed.. again FORTUNES!
Personally I'd just tidy up, fuck it off and buy another one.
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DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
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BTW if those panels were re-painted only 2,000 miles ago where the hell do you drive it, in a gravel pit? Its stone chip city!
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3CorsaMeal
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Registered: 11th Apr 02
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I find grinding out as much as possible is the best way, dremel is handy.
I'm hoping mine doesn't come back (for a while at least) i did it with POR15 a few years back and the moisture got under it and started to rust underneath, the POR15 peeled off in a layer. I blame my prep though.
This time i have done loads of sanding and used proper pre paint wipes and tac cloths etc.
The best thing i got was some 2k laquer, goes on really nice and is much better than any i've used before.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HB-Body-Professional-2K-Clear-Coat-Lacquer-400ml-Clearcoat-2x-Aerosol-Car-Laquer-/191438336653?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c929d328d
This is my battery tray i did with the laquer
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DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by 3CorsaMeal
This is my battery tray i did with the laquer
Spraying engine bays and inconspicuous places with rattles cans is one thing, but attempting to paint the rear-quarter is just fucking ludicrous.
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3CorsaMeal
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Registered: 11th Apr 02
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yeah, i have done some of the exterior bits, but do intend to get a full respray done properly. I'm mainly trying to stop all the bits that will eventually creep through, so a bodyshop only has to do the external face of car and minimal prep etc
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AndyCorsaSport
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Registered: 12th Feb 06
Location: Horsforth, West Yorkshire
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Without cutting it out, and replacing the metal. It WILL come back. No matter what you use.
We use Metalflux Rustisol at work, sand the rust as best you can. Brush it on (it's a liquid) goes on like a brown colour and turns a weird purple then dries black. Leave it 24hours to dry. Light sand with 180/320 and high build prime it.
Even then it still comes back.
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3CorsaMeal
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Registered: 11th Apr 02
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Space frame it and carbon fibre body. Its the only way.
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Steve
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by AndyCorsaSport
Without cutting it out, and replacing the metal. It WILL come back. No matter what you use.
We use Metalflux Rustisol at work, sand the rust as best you can. Brush it on (it's a liquid) goes on like a brown colour and turns a weird purple then dries black. Leave it 24hours to dry. Light sand with 180/320 and high build prime it.
Even then it still comes back.
have you tried zinc primering it?
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--ToM--
Member
Registered: 23rd Nov 07
Location: Wirral
User status: Offline
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Wurth do a rust killer stuff, it's white then turns black kills the rust then paint over it with what ever you wish
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Chris x
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Registered: 11th Sep 08
Location: Bexhill
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quote:
Originally posted by DaveyLC
BTW if those panels were re-painted only 2,000 miles ago where the hell do you drive it, in a gravel pit? Its stone chip city!
That's dirt and I don't intend on doing the whole quarter panel!  Just the lower lip where it meets the bumper. 10mm max.
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Chris x
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Registered: 11th Sep 08
Location: Bexhill
User status: Offline
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Thanks for the replies. I'll have a google! 
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Rķan P
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Registered: 26th Jul 15
Location: Northern Ireland
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Bilt Hamber is meant to be good gear. There is an electrox repair kit, consisting of deox-c gel, which is a gel spread onto the rust, left for a time, then washed off leaving a bare metal surface without any grinding or loss of metal. Then an electox primer, which is high in zinc I think to cover the metal. It also comes with a water based surface degreaser. Give it a look.
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Chris x
Member
Registered: 11th Sep 08
Location: Bexhill
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Rķan P
Bilt Hamber is meant to be good gear. There is an electrox repair kit, consisting of deox-c gel, which is a gel spread onto the rust, left for a time, then washed off leaving a bare metal surface without any grinding or loss of metal. Then an electox primer, which is high in zinc I think to cover the metal. It also comes with a water based surface degreaser. Give it a look.
Thanks!
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