DP.
Member
Registered: 21st Dec 03
Location: Stoke-on-Trent
User status: Offline
|
think i have a dodgy connection going from the Hall Effect Sensor in my dizzy to the ECU as i have tried 3 dizzies and keep getting the following ECU fault code:
94 - Hall Effect Sensor - High Voltage
The HES plug has 3 wires so plan was to use a multimeter to make sure there is no breaks in the wire leading to the ECU plug. Snag is, theres 55 pins on the ECU plug and i dont know which ones are for the HES
However, I managed to find a PDF file describing each of the pins:
http://www.calibrainfo.hu/letoltes/motronic/motronic25_description.pdf
Can anyone work out which 3 of these pins are for the Hall Effect Sensor (HES) as its not clear.
I saw the following:
Pin 31 - voltage to CYL ID (HES):t1 ignition on / running 11v to 13v
maybe thats one of them.. what about the other 2?
[Edited on 05-01-2004 by DP.]
|
DP.
Member
Registered: 21st Dec 03
Location: Stoke-on-Trent
User status: Offline
|
Hmmm.. 28 views and no suggestions from anyone. Guess im on my own with this one 
|
Greasemonkey
Member
Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
User status: Offline
|
Low voltage dosnt necessaraly (spelling) mean a dodgey connection, it might just mean its getting a crap signal cos something else is playing up, i had a low voltage across throttle position sensor fault, and that turned out to be a hole in the inlet trak, the fault codes are more of a guide to point you in the right direction than a definate solution
[Edited on 06-01-2004 by Greasemonkey]
|
DP.
Member
Registered: 21st Dec 03
Location: Stoke-on-Trent
User status: Offline
|
well... the fault is high voltage.... exactly the same fault if you unplug the sensor... so its not even recognising that its been plugged in. and this is the 3rd dizzy so i think I have elimnated that.
If it goes: HES - > Loom -> ECU
I have more or less eliminated the HES leaving either the Loom or ECU to be the problem. I dont see how it can be anything else apart from perhaps a bad earth whcih I have already checked.
Anyone got any suggestions or experienced anything similar?
|
Kerry
Member
Registered: 5th Oct 01
Location: Norwich
User status: Offline
|
i suggest u check out ure local rolling road centre and get a diagnostic done or ring an autoelectrician
|
Greasemonkey
Member
Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
User status: Offline
|
Fair enough thats the key though to these problems, elimination, at lest ya getting close matey
|
clarkie
Member
Registered: 24th Jun 03
Location: Nuneaton Drives:1.4 sport
User status: Offline
|
i think greasemonkey's on the right lines, the fault codes give you a clue. im not that clued up on vauxhalls, but wat does the hall effect sensor do? the sensor is probably o.k. doing its job and picking up that there's a fault sum where. e.g. if you picked up a fault code with a lamda sensor, reading the wrong imisions, you wouldn't change the sensor, you'd wack it on a imissions machine, so as kerry says, look into a rolling road as they can look at ignition etc.
|
Kerry
Member
Registered: 5th Oct 01
Location: Norwich
User status: Offline
|
The Hall Effect Sensor is used to indicate the position of #1 cylinder when the engine is first started and to determine the injection timing and sequence.
If the Hall Effect sensor fails, the engine can not be started, but if the hall sensor fails when the engine is running, the engine will keep running and the ECU will use the reference sensor and engine speed sensor, but the ignition timing will be retarded by 6 degrees
|
Scotty_B
Member
Registered: 11th Jun 03
Location: East Kilbride
User status: Offline
|
quote:
Originally posted by Kerry
The Hall Effect Sensor is used to indicate the position of #1 cylinder when the engine is first started and to determine the injection timing and sequence.
If the Hall Effect sensor fails, the engine can not be started, but if the hall sensor fails when the engine is running, the engine will keep running and the ECU will use the reference sensor and engine speed sensor, but the ignition timing will be retarded by 6 degrees
 Just relised I know Fcuk all about engines/electrics.
|
Kerry
Member
Registered: 5th Oct 01
Location: Norwich
User status: Offline
|
neither do i
|
Greasemonkey
Member
Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
User status: Offline
|
Kerry you seem to know ya S**T i wasnt 100% what a hall effect sensor was till you said
|
Kerry
Member
Registered: 5th Oct 01
Location: Norwich
User status: Offline
|
|
DP.
Member
Registered: 21st Dec 03
Location: Stoke-on-Trent
User status: Offline
|
quote:
If the Hall Effect sensor fails, the engine can not be started, but if the hall sensor fails when the engine is running, the engine will keep running and the ECU will use the reference sensor and engine speed sensor, but the ignition timing will be retarded by 6 degrees
This isn't completely true! Yes the sensor located inside the dizzy is used to determine the position of #1 cylinder. However, you can still start and run an engine without a signal from this sensor. The ECU will run the engine in 'get you home' mode i.e. as the ignition timing retarded.
Clarkie, the reason why i thougt it was break in a wire or something is because the 'high voltage' fault is recorded both with the sensor plugged in and left out.
I think I have located the pins in the ECU socket that are for the Hall Effect Sensor and will test those tonight with a multimeter which will either confirm the problem or eliminate another element.
Searched a couple of forums and i cant find anyone who's had the same problem at all 
[Edited on 06-01-2004 by DP.]
|
DP.
Member
Registered: 21st Dec 03
Location: Stoke-on-Trent
User status: Offline
|
UPDATE:
used amultimeter to check Hall Effect Sensor in the dizzy and the wires in the loom.
Checked the earth on the plug and that was fine.
Checked the other 2 wires goin from sensor plug to the ecu plug and they were ok
(pins 8 and 31)
plugged ecu back in and started but ecu light was still on with the 94 error code
pulled back the rubber cover on sensor plug to expose the back of the plug to get multimeter probes down there to check while engine was running
+ve feed was 11.something volts whih was right according 2 details in pdf
(between 11 & 13 volts)
Tested the middle wire on HES plug which is the signal from sensor... after pushing the probe in it measured 4.5v
looked back on dash and ecu light had gone off
stopped and started engine again and ecu light was still off
went for a drive and seemed to be ok
yet the signal voltage was 4.5 where it should be average of 2.5v as according to the PDF
went out for another drive down dual carriage way and the ecu light came on after about 12 miles.
Checked the code and it was 94 again (HES- high voltage) again, turned off car and started again and ecu light was on and is staying on now.
so thats really confused me and im not sure what to think now...
[Edited on 06-01-2004 by DP.]
|
DP.
Member
Registered: 21st Dec 03
Location: Stoke-on-Trent
User status: Offline
|
drove to work this morning... surprisingly when i started engine no ecu light.. ran fine for the 1st 5 miles then the light came on again for the remaining 15 miles.
|
Greasemonkey
Member
Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
User status: Offline
|
What engine is it matey if its an early C16XE the fault might be with the ECU and i got a spare one you could try
|
DP.
Member
Registered: 21st Dec 03
Location: Stoke-on-Trent
User status: Offline
|
engine is a 20XE out of a G Reg Calibra
Thanks for the offer tho!!!
[Edited on 07-01-2004 by DP.]
|
Greasemonkey
Member
Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
User status: Offline
|
find some one with the same ECU and try it to see if the ECU is at fault, also ask the guys on MIG Web they know every thing about the C20XE engines
|
