SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
|
Anyone clued up on these cars? Cant find a buyers guide anywhere 
Thinking of buying a 93 import Supra TT, need advice.
AK you fellow heffer shaggin stud, can u help?
|
AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
|
UK or J-spec?
Auto or Manual?
http://www.mkivsupra.net is a good site 
The UK Spec is generally more expensive to buy, yet cheaper to insure.... and stated at 320bhp standard
The J-Spec is cheaper to buy, more expensive to insure.... and is 280bhp stated, but more like 300 to 320 standard
spec diffs are....
|
AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
|
UK Spec
Bigger Steel shafted turbos
Bigger Brakes
Bigger injectors (550cc i think)
More toys
But heavier and a bit more laggy than j-spec
J-Spec
Lighter car, with quicker spooling turbo's/
440cc injectors bla bla
Auto's are VERY good and normally quicker than manuals....
|
AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
|
What should I check when looking at a Supra to buy?
-Have someone cold start the car while you stand behind it watching the tailpipe, and look for gray smoke with a blue-ish tint (easiest to see in direct sunlight)
-Let the car warm up and continue to stand behind the car checking for smoke
-Now move to the front of the car, and open the hood. Listen for bad noises (Noticeable Injector Ticking is Normal)
-Now go back and watch the tailpipe for smoke, have someone blip the throttle, while you watch for smoke, let it idle between the blips
-Now do the same but have them mash the gas and rev it up till like 5000rpm or so
-Now have a friend follow behind you in another car while you go for a test drive
-Have him watch for smoke while you drive
-Put it in 2nd gear, let the rpm drop to about 1500, and then stomp on it, and stay on it till redline, then let off the gas. Your friend should be watching for "gray/blue smoke". Just grey/black smoke is ok.
-Smoke at cold start-up, leaving a stop-light, or throttle blipping from idle is valve stem seals. Smoke under boost, or after letting off of boost, or maybe when revving full throttle, is turbo seals. Smoking for no good reason, or if it doesn't stop pretty quickly is piston rings (may get better or worse when hot).
-Your job while at full throttle in 2nd is making sure the turbos boost fine (smoothly), that you can feel full boost by 4000rpm or near it, and that you don't hear bad noises (slight turbo whistle/whine is ok, if it has an intake it will be noticeable)
-Use all the gears in the transmission, and make sure it shifts fine (if it is a 6spd, it is going to feel and sound clunky too you, that’s normal. If the transmission makes "ball bearings in a can" sounds at idle or low speeds, that is 2-piece sprung flywheel and is normal)
-While driving with the windows down, listen for clicking or popping noises coming from outside the car. (A POP when starting or stopping, or making a sharp low speed turn (maybe up a hill), is the drivers side engine mount. A clicking sound under initial mild acceleration or deceleration, that lasts for only a second or two then stops, and sounds exactly the same regardless of speed, is the rear upper control arm bushings. A clicking that changes with speed is wheel bearings)
-Make sure the brakes work smoothly and reasonably quietly. When coming to a stop take your hand slightly off the wheel and make sure it stays straight.
-Make sure the car tracks straight on flat roads.
-A creaking noise from the hatch when turning up hill, means it needs rubber hatch bumpers.
-Rattling from above you means the targa is loose (make sure the targa bolts loosen, and tighten back down smoothly) and make sure the targa wrench is there.
-Make sure the rear hatch opens and closes fine, and that is stays up on it own.
-Make sure all the doors open and close smoothly
-If you can really smell the exhaust when coming to a stop, it has no cats
-If when flooring it, the car pulls smoothly till ~4000rpm, and then rockets forward like getting hit with a semi, then it's BPU and not stock. If you can hardly feel a change over from the 1st turbo to both, then it's stock.
-When checking under the car for leaks, don’t be alarmed by an oily sludge on the transmission and differential. That’s a greasy undercoating that Toyota applied. But check for fresh oil leaks, and check the rear CV joint boots for cracks.
-If possible, look at the spot where the car normally parks. Check for fresh oil puddles or spots. If they say their other car caused the spot, don't believe them if it's a clean 1-2 year old car they are blaming it on.
-Check the wheel rim, inside and out, for curb rash or bent rims.
-Check for excessive or uneven wear on the tires
-Check for cheap, or miss-matched tires
-Look to see if all the little plastic panels and parts under the car all line-up, and are attached, and that paint is not where it shouldn't be (cracked under trays are not uncommon, don't be alarmed). Spend a fair amount of time on the ground, don't be afraid to get a little dirty. Also all the major body panels have the original VIN number visibly stuck on them, make sure they are all still there and are the right number. Look for missing, non-original, or out of place fasteners. All these things are possible signs off a collision.
-Check for signs of rust in the wheel wells and inner fender
-Check the condition of all the exposed rubber on the suspension joints
-Make sure the power steering is smooth and quiet
-Make sure the gaps in the body panels are all even.
-Walk all around the car, and look at each panel at different angles. Looks for small dents and dings, and make sure the paint matches all around.
-Look over the paint condition very closely
-Check around all the glass to see if it has been replaced. Check the manufacturer information on the glass to see if they are all the same.
-Make sure all the exterior lights work
-Check the headlamps for cracks, moisture or fogging/yellowing (expect them too be fogged/yellowed if an earlier model)
-Make sure to test every last switch in the car to make sure it works (power windows, locks, turn signals, light switch, dome lights, power seat, cruise control, everything). Use all the functions on the A/C and make sure they all work. Go from HOT to COLD A/C and make sure it's getting very hot, and very cold. If it has a factory alarm, make sure the key-fobs work.
-Check the interior for excessive wear (cracked leather in the seat's side bolsters is pretty damn common).
-Check all of the fluids, make sure the fluid isn't terrible. Open the oil fill cap, and look inside for sludge build-up (you shouldn't see any)
-Find out what oil the use, and how often (don't trust their answer unless they have receipts)
-Ask them if they have had any work done to it. If they have owned it for several years, and say they have done nothing to it, don't take that as being a completely good thing.
-Ask if it has ever had modifications, and what.
-Make sure it still has the spare tire, jack and wrenches, owners manual, and targa wrench.
-Try to get the repair records
-Do a Carfax.com check on the VIN #
-Take it to a mechanic you trust AFTER you have done all this to get it checked out one last time before buying it.
-If the owner refuses any of this, be suspicious.
-Try to take a level-headed friend with you who you can trust.
This may sound like a lot to do, but really it's not, most of these things take no more than a second to do. Make sure to always go look at a car on a bright sunny day, and make sure you and the seller will have plenty of time (don't rush anything)
Any problems you find (and your likely to find a few) should not mean you shouldn't buy the car. But you need to know what you are getting into, and whether the price is reasonable. Always negotiate. People are almost always willing to come down some on their asking price. And be prepared to walk away as hard as it may be.
|
AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
|
for about 700quid you can get a standard j-spec to 400bhp 
2x de-cats and Fuel Cut Defenceor and exhaust
|
AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
|
I have some more useful things to add. These are from Matt H who gave me some email advice on checking a car:
When you first get there, ask to see the log book and match up the chassis number. - If there's anything questionable here, walk away. - Don't wait for excuses
While the bonnets open carefully put your hand down to the exhaust manifold to see if the cars been run recently. - If it's cold, ask him to start the car up while you're at the back and look at the exhaust. A small puff of blue smoke is OK, but anymore than a puff and walk away. If it's cold, expect some white smoke. It shouldn't be excessive though.... If the car is warm, it should only give a small blue puff at worst.
If cold, the engine should start and idle at about 1200 rpm for about 2 minutes then drop to 1000 for another couple and be stable at 700 after another couple. - The engine should idle smooth and purr happily with no misfires or rattles. (The flywheel can rattle, but this should go if you press the clutch down. - Indicating a new clutch/flywheel is on the cards)
Look into the driverside front air duct and you should see the stock intercooler. For a Jap car it shouldn't be corroded, but may be dented. Look around here and inside the main bumper opening for over spray and/or accident damage.
Look under the rear of the car. You should be able to see most of the exhaust system, check for undercarriage dents/scrapes.
Again look for overspray/accident damage.
All the panel gaps should be pretty much the same and all openings should open and close with ease.
Mkiv bonnets and boots do get a little play when pushed so don't panic too much if the bonnet can move a couple of mm or the boot rubbers are shot.
Take a look down the flanks of the car. This should show up body imperfections and carpark dents in the doors.
Inside the car do the usual checks on pedal rubbers for excessive wear and steeringwheel wear.
When you drive the car, the first turbo should be noticable as a whistle, and the 2nd turbo should come in at 3800-4000rpm. You shouldn't be able to hear either turbo at high rpm... The engine should be louder! - It's normal'ish to get a slight hesitation as the 2nd turbo comes in but it should be very minor.
If you can, get up to 100 mph and apply the brakes consistantly down to about 40 mph. You should feel no judder from the wheels or pedal.... The Jap brakes warp easily
Thanks to Matt H for that.
|
AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
|
Differences between a GZ and a UK car:
Between 30-50% Cheap Insurance
Heated Seats
Cream or Black Leather
Passenger Airbag
Glass headlamps
Headlamp wash/wipe
UK Radio & 6 CD Changer
17" Wheels
Nice scoop on bonnet
Larger Brakes Discs and Bigger Calipers
Airflow metering replaces MAP sensor
Different TCS (probably for the worse)
Steel Turbos (inc diff wastegate, frontpipe etc)
Cams
Fuel Tank (10l larger), Higher Capacity Pump & 550cc Injectors
Softer Shocks
Diff Cooler. + temp monitor
Additional Auto fluid cooler.
Integrated fog lights in rear cluster.
Headlamp height adjust
[Edited on 01-12-2004 by Adam Kindness]
|
AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
|
uk vs JSpec topic http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2727
Auto vs Manual topic http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10489
|
Nismo
Member
Registered: 12th Sep 02
User status: Offline
|
just make sure its a manual and its a twin / or single turbo
|
SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
|
you the man, thanks m8.
|
AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
|
no, do not rule out an Auto..... try it 1st. They are very good
|
SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
|
its a 93k TT Import, I know the guy who imported it and the current owner whos had it a year is one of the guys i train with, so im sure its a genuine straight car.
360bhp @ the wheels, not sure what the mods are, its a lovely colour, has wicked 19" rims on it. will try and get some pics.
Are these more to insure then an evo 6 of jap impreza sti?
|
SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
|
its manual.
|
Nismo
Member
Registered: 12th Sep 02
User status: Offline
|
nah probally slightly cheaper as they EVO's are newer cars , same groups just newer
|
AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
|
prob be cheaper to insure....
I was cheaper to insure my supra at 22, than i was the GTSt at 24.... go figure
|
SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
|
I was getting a huge difference between a evo 6 GSR and impreza STi type R, impreza being a lot more expensive.
|
AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
|
yup..... impreza's are more common, more stolen, more crashed
|
AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
|
i was 1k to insure my 94 jspec TT at 22/23, 1600 when i was 21/22
|
AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
|
how much is he asking?
|
SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
|
its done 120k, but is in stunning condtion and imo best looking supra/colour ive ever seen. Will get you some pics.
Hes going through a divorce with his wife etc needs rid quickly, said he`d do it friends price for about 10k. He just whacked new shocks and rubber all round, on 19" rims that aint cheap
Just got what seems like a really cheap insurance quote, didnt specify reg so wondering if insurance think its a uk spec car.
|
AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
|
10k is quite a lot for a 120k '93 car...... have a look on that site, and AT.... you can find alot for cheaper...
My new one....
1995, facelift, 50k miles for 10,500
|
SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
|
insurance quote £897, 1 years no claims, 1 sp30, 26 years old.
Shall i get a list of mods and pics ak, see what you think?
|
SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
|
adam, add me to messenger yer batteh
mrclooney@hotmail.com
|
SetH
Member
Registered: 15th Jul 01
User status: Offline
|
How about performance times for your avg 400bhp supra?
I know its not a great 1/4 mile car because of traction? Im guessing this hampers the 0-60 sprint as well.
but anyone know the following?
0-60, 0-100, 30-70 through gears, 50-70, 1/4 mile.
|
AK
Member
Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
User status: Offline
|
with 360 rwhp it should be pretty quick.... 400+ fly bhp
0-60 will be low 5's
1/4mile high 12's to low 13's possible
Is it still running on the std turbos? What boost has it been running (must be about 1.3bar to see that rwhp on std turbos)
|
