swedge
Member
Registered: 3rd Sep 07
Location: Hawick,scotland drives: 1.4 sri corsa
User status: Offline
|
from another site
[QUOTE=Demon;69811]You got some very nice Curbed Alloys there.
"annoying superficial scuffs"
As you can see, this is minor wheel damage with very little paint and metal repair required. It could be touched up with a paint touch up stick, but it would not look right.
Here's the parts list you need:
Silver Spray paint
High Gloss Clear Lacquer
Primer
Bondo Spot Putty
240 and 400 wet & dry sand paper (if you are REALLY anal, get some 600 grit paper).
Paint thinner
Masking tape & masking paper
Step 1.
Clean, Clean, Clean
This is one of the most important steps.
Use paint thinner to thoroughly clean the entire area around the damage.
You need to remove all traces of wax and silicones from the surface of the wheel.
I'm going to remind you every step of the way to clean.
I'll probably end up wiping down these surfaces 10 or more times before painting.
If you don't do this, the rest is pointless because the repair will not work. Also, you should only work on the area of the wheel that is damaged.
Don't go nuts and try to paint half your wheel on the car.
For this technique to succeed we will only sand and paint the immediate area around the damage.
Use a lint-free cloth for cleaning your wheel. Prior to cleaning with paint thinner (Prepsol is even better), scrub the tire and wheel with dish detergent to remove as much silicone (tire protectant) as possible. Dry thoroughly.
2. Sand and Putty
I like to start by masking the tire from the wheel. Get the masking tape well behind the rim.
Next, [lightly] sand the area to a nice "feather" with 240 grit sandpaper and apply spot putty.
Important: this entire project will work best if its a nice warm day. The drying time of spot putty is minutes but if it's cold or damp, this project is likely to not work out too well. Work in direct sunlight if necessary to keep the work area warm (not hot).
Remember: keep your sanding to the immediate area around the damage. Trust me on this.
Use a sanding block (small wood block or rubber erasure) to get the best results. Although dry sanding works, wet sanding is best.
3. Mask and Primer
Okay, here's where a bit of laziness is going to create an entirely new project. The silver metallic paint will get everywhere. I'm talking permanently attached to the bodywork. Mask carefully and cover the entire car with an old sheet or equivalent.
clean all of the overspray off the spokes of the wheel (clean rag and paint thinner) and the area around the inside of the rim. you do not want to try to get the paint to smoothly adhere to the entire wheel! We only want to paint the REPAIR. Only the clear coat will be sprayed without wiping off the overspray. Wait for the primer to fully dry and lightly sand it with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper.
5. Painting
VITAL: Read the instructions on the can! If you try to use this paint in cold temperatures (or in damp conditions) it's going to be a mess. Shake the can for at least a full minute and push the spray nozzle as you sweep across and release at the end. Spray on, spray off. Spray on, spray off. Apply as a very fine coat. You're not trying to make it glossy. That's the job of the top clearcoat.
Now we should be nearly done but dont get inpatient and spray the clear too soon. As a result, the clearcoat will lift the silver paint and mess up the job.
After the silver colorcoat dries (overnight is best), you can apply two thin coats of clear with about 20-30 minutes of drying time between coats. After the clear dries (another day) you can use 1500-2000 grit wet and dry or a fine cut compound to feather in any traces of the repair. Use a final polish to restore full gloss.
Here's the nicely painted wheel. let the paint dry overnight before applying another clear coat.
Cost
1 x primer £4.99
1 x paint £4.99
1 x lacquer £4.99
Wet & dry £2
so about £17-18 give or take..
Go on give it a go :thumbs_up:[/QUOTE]
|
