Crana
Member
Registered: 20th Jan 09
Location: Newcastle
User status: Offline
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How hard are they to fit and how much are they? Is it just the case off sump off and torque new bolts in?
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Ste
Premium Member
Registered: 5th Mar 03
Location: Taif, Saudi Arabia
User status: Offline
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from SBD
Big end cap must be countersunk by 1mm and must be deburred.
This is done because the H/D rod bolt has a radius under the head and countersinking the hole stops the cap cutting into the bolt.
This must be done on a pillar drill turning the drill by hand only, as this prevents possible chattering of the cap. The cap must be clamped in a vice, but do not clamp the vice down, because the countersink bit has to centralise onto the big end cap hole.
When assembling the bolts, as of 2002, the manufacturers recommend only using ARP assembly lubricant as supplied, under the heads and on the threads and torque up to: -
RB1/RB1K (9mm x 1.25mm) 2.0L 8v & 16v - 31lbft
RB2/RB2K (8mm x 1.25mm) 1.4/1.6L - - 24lbft
RB2K-F (8mm x 1.00mm) 1.3L - - - 26lbft
NOTE: - These are lower torque settings than would have been used with normal oil.
We cannot be held responsible for rod bolt stretch when an uncalibrated torque wrench has been used.
THE FOLLOWING NOTES ARE IMPORTANT.
ALWAYS wash the fasteners with cleaning solvent prior to installation.
They come coated with a “protective” coating, this is NOT a lubricant.
Choose correct torque from the list.
The method to follow for applying lubricant:
1.Coat the fastener with lubricant as evenly as possible.
2.Pull up the fastener so that it is ‘snug’.
3.Do this three times, on the third time torque to the recommended torque setting.
The above method no doubt seems strange, but does ensure no metal to metal contact that increases friction between the threads.
The torque figures shown will give a preload equal to 75% of the yield strength of the fastener.
Use a generous chamfer on all stud holes (1mm).
Do not use lock tabs. They are made from too soft a material and as it squeezes out the fastener preload is lost.
Due to leverage differences a fine thread will produce a greater preload for a given torque than will a coarse thread of the same diameter.
For all connecting rods check that the chamfer required to clear the bolt under head radius is adequate – this is VERY important.
I would rather lose by a mile because i built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me.
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Crana
Member
Registered: 20th Jan 09
Location: Newcastle
User status: Offline
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cba with counter sinking 
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philip2
Member
Registered: 1st Oct 06
Location: n.wales/chester
User status: Offline
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not right attitiude to have. just need to put a light chamfer on it, take 20min tops to do
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Crana
Member
Registered: 20th Jan 09
Location: Newcastle
User status: Offline
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Would the whole conrod have to be removed?
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broster
Premium Member
Registered: 6th Dec 02
Location: Drives: E39
User status: Offline
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No, just the end cap!
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ianofbhills
Member
Registered: 10th Feb 01
Location: newcastle
User status: Offline
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it'll take you longer to take the sump off then it will to counter sink the end caps.
Also not all arp's need the caps countersinking its only when they have a chamfer under the head of the bolt.
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Crana
Member
Registered: 20th Jan 09
Location: Newcastle
User status: Offline
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Can you buy ones that don't need counter sinking? I don't have access to a piller drill as such
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Linch
Member
Registered: 4th May 06
Location: Whickham, Tyne and Wear
User status: Offline
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I will do it for you? its not that big of a job.
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ianofbhills
Member
Registered: 10th Feb 01
Location: newcastle
User status: Offline
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You can drill it with a hand brace. Seriously its not hard.
Caps off, counter sink bit in a hand drill and countersink the cap by about 1mm. Check your countersink is deep enough by placing the arp bolt in and making sure the head is flush on the cap and if its not countersink it a bit more.
Just buy the bolts if they don't need countersinking then happy days but if they do its no big deal as its only a tiny bit more work.
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ianofbhills
Member
Registered: 10th Feb 01
Location: newcastle
User status: Offline
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I did mine with a hand drill despite what it says in the sbd instructions. They were fine the whole time i had that engine. (2 years and 6000 hard miles on track and 1/4 mile)
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Crana
Member
Registered: 20th Jan 09
Location: Newcastle
User status: Offline
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I was always under the impression that you just swapped standard bolts for arps
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Ian
Site Administrator
Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
User status: Offline
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You could if you wanted to and if the bolt head isn't home they'll be worse than standard.
[Edited on 08-12-2010 by Ian]
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