Ian
Site Administrator
Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
User status: Offline
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Been having some problems with my radiators over the last few months, quite a few leaks, have replaced three already and the large bathroom one towel rail style which has been in there 15 months has just failed again with a large balloon on the paint which if its the same as last time indicates a failure in the weld.
I've also replaced the drain valves as a few of those were seeping.
Do I need to add any rust inhibitor back in to the system? Thinking it must be very weak by now if it had any just because I've introduced so much new water. Although a lot of advice on the web just says keep it free from air and that is good enough?
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eckers90
Member
Registered: 22nd Apr 12
Location: birmingham
User status: Offline
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im not a plumber, but my job is to flush and commissiong HUGGEEEEE heating systems, before you inhibit you need to use a system cleaner, a good one, one that gets rid of the corrosion first. flush it all out so that its completely spotless, then inhibit, dont overdose the inhibitor though, cause some of them can start picking up rust that is there, but once filled and vented properly with a good inhibitor, you shouldnt have a problem.
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Colin
Member
Registered: 4th Apr 02
User status: Offline
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I had trouble with an old system in a flat and fitted a magnetic filter in the system, it removes all the iron oxide particles to stop corrosion.
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Ste
Premium Member
Registered: 5th Mar 03
Location: Taif, Saudi Arabia
User status: Offline
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Iron oxide isn't truly rust. Rust is usually described as hydrated ferric oxide by chemists.
I would rather lose by a mile because i built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me.
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Colin
Member
Registered: 4th Apr 02
User status: Offline
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Whatever it was it cleaned it right out. Bang in some sentinel as well.....job done!
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mattk
Member
Registered: 27th Feb 06
Location: St. Helens
User status: Offline
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probably cheap shit rads are half the problem. best bet is to throw some cleaner in for a few days then some inhibitor. I regulaly convert 20 year old rads from tank pressure to mains and rarley have a problem
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mattk
Member
Registered: 27th Feb 06
Location: St. Helens
User status: Offline
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And btw I can give you 3 bottles of each for nothing if you need it, half a litre bottles of Fernox F1 and F3 it is.
I can drop them at Mike B`s if you want
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monkeytwizzel
Member
Registered: 10th Aug 11
Location: Chard, Somerset
User status: Offline
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As mattk has said really,we had to to run some cleaner though a system twice over a 3 week period to clean it then refill and add inhibitor.
If you still have a problem the system can be chemicaly cleaned under pressure by a heating engineer.
[Edited on 25-03-2013 by monkeytwizzel]
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mattk
Member
Registered: 27th Feb 06
Location: St. Helens
User status: Offline
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I reckon Ian is well capable of doing a power flush. Not that old your place is it Ian?
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Ian
Site Administrator
Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
User status: Offline
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2005.
If you can get the stuff that would be sound.
The rads which have failed are the original ones.
Towel rail thing has lasted 15 months.
Did fancy getting better ones if that makes a different to how long they're going to last but I wasn't sure what to look out for to make sure I'm not just paying too much for the same shit one.
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Chris
Premium Member
Registered: 21st Sep 99
User status: Offline
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Reduce house temp from 26C and boiler temp down from 97C.
Still running @ 4bar
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mattk
Member
Registered: 27th Feb 06
Location: St. Helens
User status: Offline
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lol 4bar, that be why
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Toby
Premium Member
Registered: 29th Nov 05
User status: Offline
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Need to get bleed off some of that pressure. 4bar is at least double the pressure you need and should have.
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Chris
Premium Member
Registered: 21st Sep 99
User status: Offline
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His house is like an oven, most likely melted the rads
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