tomcoles203
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Registered: 22nd Oct 02
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I own a corsa B 1.4 sri and want to put it on bodies can anyone help?
What throttle bodies do i need, how much?
Where do i get them from?
where do i get the inlet manifold from to make this possable?
What else do i need to do the job and where can i get it from?
If anyone can help me and answer these questions i would be very greatful.
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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You will need the following:
New rod bolts - ARP ones are best
Throttle bodies - I like Alpha ones myself, but Jenvy ones are supposed to be good
New engine management so you can raise the limiter and get the fueling correct for the increased airflow
Bigger injectors if you are planning on big power, but not needed unless you are going to do more tuning such as race profiled cams
The throttle bodies replace the inlet manifold, but you will need to attatch the tb's to the head somehow - speak to the tb manufacturer and see what the recomend..
A good person to speak to is Keith Piper on this board becuase he built a very impressive 1.4 16v engine:
You'll find that there are loads of carburettor centers tha now do injection tuning all the place - your best going to them for more advice on what to get, they will also probably do some reconditioned stuff for a bit cheaper because your gonne be spending a fair bit of cash on this project as it will need to be set up on a rolling road...
Unless you get a Dblais throttle bodies which can be used with the standard ECU and injection system - power gains will not be as high with that because it is slightly more restrictive as t uses a standard airbox or induction kit.
You'll be looking at over a grand for anything like this 
[Edited on 18-10-2004 by 1800ed]
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tomcoles203
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Registered: 22nd Oct 02
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Thankyou for your help mate i am seroursly thinkinking about makin my car into a rally slag i work for a four wheel drive center that specialise in scoobies. the guy i work for won the network Q rally a few years back and i know he will help me.
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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Good stuff! Might be an idea to put in a F15 gearbox too then if you don't already have one
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James R
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Registered: 4th Feb 03
Location: 205GTi16/306GTi16
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If you goning to TB the engine then it would be a better idea to start with a 1.4 16v unit rahter than throw money at a 8v engine.
You'd want 40mm TB's and then SBD (www.sbdev.co.uk) can supply a manifold, then an ecu to run it i/e emerald, MBE, DTA the last two being most popular with the rally boys. They are both as good as each other it's worth going to your local RR and find out which they recommend, then go buy it somewhere else, then get them to map it for you.
With the 1400 16v on 40's and a decent manifold you'd be looking at the 130-140BHP region, and the all important ARP's.
P.S a F13CR box is rthe better choice as it carries you longer in 1st and 2nd and will add the over all accel of the car.
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broster
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Registered: 6th Dec 02
Location: Drives: E39
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that rocker cover is modded a fair bit
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jr
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Registered: 20th May 02
Location: Kent
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your need a omex ecu, i have one for sale funnly enough
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Cybermonkey
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Registered: 22nd Sep 02
Location: Sydney, Australia
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quote:
Originally posted by j1400
If you goning to TB the engine then it would be a better idea to start with a 1.4 16v unit rahter than throw money at a 8v engine.
You'd want 40mm TB's and then SBD (www.sbdev.co.uk) can supply a manifold, then an ecu to run it i/e emerald, MBE, DTA the last two being most popular with the rally boys. They are both as good as each other it's worth going to your local RR and find out which they recommend, then go buy it somewhere else, then get them to map it for you.
With the 1400 16v on 40's and a decent manifold you'd be looking at the 130-140BHP region, and the all important ARP's.
P.S a F13CR box is rthe better choice as it carries you longer in 1st and 2nd and will add the over all accel of the car.
I thought the F15 and F13 only differed slightly in 2nd gear ratio and final drive, and its a SLIGHT change.
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ianofbhills
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Registered: 10th Feb 01
Location: newcastle
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quote:
Originally posted by broster
that rocker cover is modded a fair bit
just a bit
just been looking at that and going hmm that looks weird and erm that isnt meant to be there.
suppose you need it tho when going round the track fast with the engine at 9000rpm i'd imagine oil starvation of the crank beomes a problem.
probably not allowed dry sumps in the regs hence all the effort gone into the cam cover
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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Dry sumps are banned hence most the extra bits...
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Cybermonkey
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Registered: 22nd Sep 02
Location: Sydney, Australia
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isnt that a dry sump on the left though??
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James R
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Registered: 4th Feb 03
Location: 205GTi16/306GTi16
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quote:
Originally posted by Cybermonkey24
quote:
Originally posted by j1400
If you goning to TB the engine then it would be a better idea to start with a 1.4 16v unit rahter than throw money at a 8v engine.
You'd want 40mm TB's and then SBD (www.sbdev.co.uk) can supply a manifold, then an ecu to run it i/e emerald, MBE, DTA the last two being most popular with the rally boys. They are both as good as each other it's worth going to your local RR and find out which they recommend, then go buy it somewhere else, then get them to map it for you.
With the 1400 16v on 40's and a decent manifold you'd be looking at the 130-140BHP region, and the all important ARP's.
P.S a F13CR box is rthe better choice as it carries you longer in 1st and 2nd and will add the over all accel of the car.
I thought the F15 and F13 only differed slightly in 2nd gear ratio and final drive, and its a SLIGHT change.
Its differnet in both, it means with a 7750 shift point and a 4.18 final with a F13 I could hit 62.something mph and with a F15 I hit 58.somthing mph. I spose it's only about a 7.5% difference but, more importantly there's less of a jump when you get to third, when I used to havea 3.74 in there the accel went flat at 3rd (relatively), with a 4.18 in there it's muh faster in both pulling through gears and actually accel. And I can hit the rev limiter in 5th too 
Having run a 1.4 16V on TB's I was fairly unimpressed with it's perf, and TB'd 2L sorted that out, but handlinghas never been the same. The answer is to use a nova, much better option
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Siberia
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Registered: 9th Oct 03
Location: Leprechaun Land Drives : Zafira GSI
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is there much work changing a final drive?
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James R
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Registered: 4th Feb 03
Location: 205GTi16/306GTi16
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1 Remove box
2 remove shifter turrent
3 extract cluster
4 remove diff
5 swap the crown wheel on diff
6 swap pinion on cluster
7put it all back together
8back in car and fill with oil.
Take abotu a day in all if you know what you're up to.
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Siberia
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Registered: 9th Oct 03
Location: Leprechaun Land Drives : Zafira GSI
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 oh dear whilst i could pull an engine appart into little pieces and put it back together i think the gearbox would be beyond me.....
although might have a pop at it at some stage in the future....
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