toxic
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Registered: 23rd May 05
User status: Offline
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Hello guys can you help me out here how would i go about fitting a front set of DISKS & PADS to my corsa B its a 1.4 i got the disks & pads i bean told its easy but i would like to know if anyone has pic's of the job and a step by step list of what i nead to do thank's a lot guys 
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CorsAsh
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Registered: 19th Apr 02
Location: Munich
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I have step by step guide and pics...in my Haynes manual...
It's a good idea to invest in one.
Anyway...
http://www.corsasport.co.uk/board/viewthread.php?tid=219303
Follow that guide, but don't take brake hoses off calipers, and obv just put your brakes back on as you took em off as you're not puttin bigger components in.
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toxic
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Registered: 23rd May 05
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nice one i will take a look
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Luke1.4
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Registered: 2nd Dec 02
Location: Blackpool
User status: Offline
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Its really easy and a tip if your using crappy small allen keys like i did get the vauxhall wheel nut wrench thing out of your boot and you can slide it over you allen key to give you more leverage. it fits perfectly under the wheel arch cause they can be a pain to undo
[Edited on 06-06-2005 by Luke1.4]
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fragpot
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Registered: 29th Feb 04
Location: Linlithgow, West Lothian
User status: Offline
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Fragpots rough instructions:
1 Handbrake on. Loosen wheel nuts by a half turn, chock the back wheels, jack the car up, put it in gear, remove wheel nuts, remove wheel.
2 - At the back of the brake caliper there are 2 bolts inside rubber dust hoods. 10 or 8mm hex I think. Dont even bother with allen keys, get a socket - they are only a few quid.
3 - Undo the caliper bolts and the caliper should fall down a bit. Rest the caliper with an upside down bucket or similar, to stop any stress on the rubber hose.
4 - There is a posidrive screw holding the brake disk in place. Use a massive screwdriver and get this off first time, if it chews then your in for a long day. Try WD40 on it or give it a wee tap with a hammer to shock it.
5 - Once this comes off, the disc should come off. You might need to temp it with a metal hammer.
6 - Add some copper grease to the hub to stop the disc rusting onto it. Slip the disc back onto the hub and line up the countersunk hole with the disc retaining screw hole. Put the screw back in, making sure the disc sits nicely against the hub.
7 - Now, undo the vibration clip on the caliper, remembering how it should sit.
8 - Stick a screw driver in between the pads (where the disc goes) and push the piston right back to its home position. Technically you should remove the pads and use a piston wind back tool, but screwdriver works fine.
9 - The old pads should fall out if you tap or lever them with a screwdriver. Insert new pads and make sure they fit right.
10 Reattach metal clip, put calliper back on and do the bolts on the back up.
11 Wheel back on, tighten nuts, lower jack.
12 Repeat for the other side.
13 Now do a full system bleed in the correct order.
Tighten all wheel nuts while the car is on the ground. If the pedal feels spongy then something after bleeding then something is on wrong. Go round and check again, make sure bleeding valves are all closed.
Read this Article for some bedding in theory.
Remember, your new brakes may lock up easily and wont work as well as they should for the first 300 or so miles so take it easy.
This is my brakes after I fitted new pads and discs. Also switched to ATE callipers and braided hoses while I was down there.
Notice no brake fluid spill 
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Shane
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Registered: 10th Jan 04
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and u dont have to replace that little screw on the disc, when i changed mine i had to drill it out as they was rusted in
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fragpot
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Registered: 29th Feb 04
Location: Linlithgow, West Lothian
User status: Offline
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Its good practice to replace the screw, otherwise the brake disc is just sandwiched in between the hub and wheel.
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