Gregor
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Registered: 28th Nov 03
Location: Paisley, Renfrewshire
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Yes or no , and why ?
The guide on the site has used fibreglass , and im wondering if it would crack , bear in mind its only a small area ?
Cheers
Gregor
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Predator Corsa
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Registered: 29th Sep 03
Location: Kent
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go 4 it, if u use about 3 or 4 layers of matting, i dout it will crack!
that stuff is very strong!
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!
Don't do it, it WILL crack! It may be strong, but it does not adhere to metal well enough to be used for such large repairs/fillings.
Get it welded up and it will never come off without being cut off!
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Basscrazy
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Registered: 16th Sep 05
Location: If im on here then clearly in front of the pc
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i have that fiberglass panel and it cracked where it was smothed in from the bass it lasted about 8 months tho still have it on just got it resmoothed
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MR2Mike
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Registered: 20th Jan 05
Location: Old Trafford. Drives: MR2 N/A
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it WILL crack, definitely.
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loo_goblin
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Registered: 14th Jul 04
Location: Horsham, West Sussex
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i can weld it, i am just really bad at smoothing wit filler
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MR2Mike
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Registered: 20th Jan 05
Location: Old Trafford. Drives: MR2 N/A
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lol , weld mine bud
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mossy
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Registered: 22nd Jan 04
Location: Manchester Drives: GSi
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quote: Originally posted by ed
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!
Don't do it, it WILL crack! It may be strong, but it does not adhere to metal well enough to be used for such large repairs/fillings.
Get it welded up and it will never come off without being cut off!
mates hasnt craked yet..he did it same as guide on here
gettin on for a year ago now...
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markygfaebburn
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Registered: 3rd Dec 05
Location: West Lothian
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iv got the fibre glass panel, not cracked but had gaps around the lights & spoiler so need to get it filled. best doin it properly with the weld
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FasT09
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Registered: 4th Feb 05
Location: North Yorkshire
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smoothin a boot panel will crack after a while. spend that bit extra n get it welded i got mine done n it will b cheaper in the long run as i wont need to keep re smoothin and sprayin it.
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MR2Mike
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Registered: 20th Jan 05
Location: Old Trafford. Drives: MR2 N/A
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it will definitely crack, and its the cheap bodge job way to do it.
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Predator Corsa
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Registered: 29th Sep 03
Location: Kent
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HOLD ON! he said semi smooth, not the number plate recess, just the lock and wiper.
I still think fibreglass is very stong, only crackes if something hits it on pressure on it
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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Yes, but, the fibreglass may be very strong. BUT IT DOES NOT STICK TO STEEL well enough to be used in that way. The only reason we use fibreglass repairs on pannles is it is good for bridging small holes. For anything else it is heavy, messy and cracks.
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Gregor
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Registered: 28th Nov 03
Location: Paisley, Renfrewshire
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Cheers I understand what you mean
What sort of cost is welding though ?
Can I pick up a mig welder pretty cheap ?.
And surely if you are going to put filler on top of the welds it may also just crack ?
Cheers
Gregor
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Butler
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Registered: 2nd Jun 05
Location: London
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I dont understand how you can weld a bit of metal to the exact size and shape to fit the boot?
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Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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measure it cut a plate out weld it in
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Butler
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Registered: 2nd Jun 05
Location: London
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ok and what about the shape
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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You can shape with fibreglass because it won't be structural...
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Butler
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Registered: 2nd Jun 05
Location: London
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do you know if there is a guide including the welding part?
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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Na, basically you want to do the following:
1. Remove boot locking mechanism from the tail gate (Use your Haynes manual)
2. Fit boot solinoid according to manufacturers instructions an fit a witch in a suitable place. You will find on the boot lock a small lever on the n/s of the latch thats goot for attatching a solinoid to.
3. Make a cardboard template of the back of the boot handle, check it fits over the recess for the handle ok and cut it out in steel.
4. Touch weld the plate on using small spots evenly spaced apart.
5. Make a small strip of steel to join the plate you just welded on to the numberplate recess and weld that on in the same way.
6. Put some strips of fibreglass over the welded plates to get a rough shape of the boot and sand it down so it's vaugly smooth.
7. Go over with easy sand filler to smooth out any small holes, low spots e.t.c.. then sand. Then spray with high build primer and sand down, fill in anymore low spots and sand some more. Keep on going until you are happy.
8. Paint!
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Butler
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Registered: 2nd Jun 05
Location: London
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I shall bare this in mind, thanks ed.
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Butler
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Registered: 2nd Jun 05
Location: London
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btw why do you need to weld it to the numberplate recess and where abouts?
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Gregor
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Registered: 28th Nov 03
Location: Paisley, Renfrewshire
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quote: Originally posted by ed
Na, basically you want to do the following:
1. Remove boot locking mechanism from the tail gate (Use your Haynes manual)
2. Fit boot solinoid according to manufacturers instructions an fit a witch in a suitable place. You will find on the boot lock a small lever on the n/s of the latch thats goot for attatching a solinoid to.
3. Make a cardboard template of the back of the boot handle, check it fits over the recess for the handle ok and cut it out in steel.
4. Touch weld the plate on using small spots evenly spaced apart.
5. Make a small strip of steel to join the plate you just welded on to the numberplate recess and weld that on in the same way.
6. Put some strips of fibreglass over the welded plates to get a rough shape of the boot and sand it down so it's vaugly smooth.
7. Go over with easy sand filler to smooth out any small holes, low spots e.t.c.. then sand. Then spray with high build primer and sand down, fill in anymore low spots and sand some more. Keep on going until you are happy.
8. Paint!
But if the filler is going straight onto metal , as it would using the fibreglass, is it likely it would still crack ?
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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Na, because it isn't doing anything structural. Its just a thin layer used for shape... It could still crack in theory but you would have to be trying.
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