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Author dodgy valve seals
greenelephant
Member

Registered: 20th Mar 06
Location: Bedfordshire
User status: Offline
28th Dec 09 at 16:02   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I am suspecting that I may have problems with my valve seals.

I have a corsa b t reg 1.4l 16V sport.

My car especially when i turn the ignition on and start up engine will release blue smoke out of the exhaust, and used to run inefficiently to what the car can do.

I was recommended to put in something called "stop smoke" to quick fix the problems. I has done the job great for my car but I would like to know IYHO (in your honest opinion) ..

1. Can the seals be repaired by a novice person with a haynes manual; and
2. if not how much would the garages charge to to fix the problem at a fair price?

thanks
Linch
Member

Registered: 4th May 06
Location: Whickham, Tyne and Wear
User status: Offline
28th Dec 09 at 16:22   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

if your handy with spanners it isnt that hard of a job. looking at a few hundred quid for a garage to do it.
greenelephant
Member

Registered: 20th Mar 06
Location: Bedfordshire
User status: Offline
28th Dec 09 at 16:50   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Will I need to do anything extra (skim any metal parts, replace/skim the valves)?
immortal_til_i_die
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Registered: 7th Aug 08
Location: north east
User status: Offline
28th Dec 09 at 19:00   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

pretty straightforward, i've done a few and had very little experience of engine building when i did my first ones. worth re-lapping the valves while you have it that far stripped. you will need:
valve spring compressor
valve grinding paste and stick (about £10 from halfrauds)
a socket or similar that fits around the outside of the seal onto the metal part to tap the seal into place (i used a 1/4" drive 3/8 socket fr my c20xe ones)

remove the head, cams and lifters, remove the valves and the old valve stem seals with long nose pliers/grips, best off numbering and re-lapping the valves before fitting the new seals as the relapping process will wear the new seals quite a bit due to the twisting/turning action. once the valves are lapped and all the valve paste cleaned off tap the new stem seals into place with aforementioned socket with an extension bar on until it is sealed all the way around against the head face, make sure the small metal spring is still intact after the stem seal is fitted. repeat this for all 16 stem seals then refit valves/springs/cams etc and refit head. job done. hope this helps
BeArDy
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Registered: 7th Aug 00
Location: Manchester
User status: Offline
28th Dec 09 at 20:52   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

IF it was me.
IF you take the head off yourself then just take it to your local engine shop who will charge you next to nothing (Mine charges me £20 if i give them the seals) to put new stem seals in.

At that price its not worth pissing about, will all the collets, lapping etc
greenelephant
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Registered: 20th Mar 06
Location: Bedfordshire
User status: Offline
29th Dec 09 at 10:46   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

ok,I have my trusted haynes manual with me. What tools am I looking at to do the job. Torque wrench, rachet, etc? not to sure as I've never took away the cylinder head
greenelephant
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Registered: 20th Mar 06
Location: Bedfordshire
User status: Offline
31st Dec 09 at 21:15   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

^bump
Joe-90
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Registered: 1st Jan 10
Location: Southampton
User status: Offline
2nd Jan 10 at 07:28   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Breaker bar, torx bits of various sizes, normals sockets & ratchet, spanners.

Dont forget you will also need:

New cambelt (might as well do the kit whilst you there!!)
New headgasket
New head bolts
Inlet & exhaust manifold gaskets.
Rocker cover gasket (as it WILL leak after being taken apart lol)

 
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