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Author Plastering
Sam
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Registered: 24th Dec 99
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14th Oct 12 at 19:26   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I'm going to try my hand at plastering (skimming) over some new plasterboard tomorrow

Anyways, on an adjacent wall that I also plan to plaster over (maybe not tomorrow, depends how I get on with the plasterboard I guess) there are some patches/holes which are about 2cm deep.

When I get round to doing that wall, do I need to fill those holes first (either with filler or plaster) and then skim across that wall, or can I just skim the wall in one go including filling in those deeper holes?

I tried researching this online but couldn't really find a definitive answer from the Internet experts on YouTube or those DIY forum websites.

Edit - obviously when I skim the walls I am going to go over them twice, not do a one coat job.

[Edited on 14-10-2012 by Sam]
Russ
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14th Oct 12 at 19:45   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

just skim, keep it wet
thomson
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Registered: 18th Jan 11
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14th Oct 12 at 19:50   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

if the hole is not too wide i would just mix up plaster for the whole wall and do the holes first to rough them out flush. then start plasterin the wall as normal. wall would have to have pva on.

but if the patches are quite large in area they would need to be roughed out with bonding first.

or when you skim the plasterboard wall any sprare you have use that to rough out the patches.





Daniel_Corsa
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14th Oct 12 at 19:50   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Fill the deeper holes with a tiny bit of board finish from the boards tomorrow, before adding your first skim to that wall.

It's not too hard, just don't be afraid of it, when it starts to go off you can really use a bit of pressure.



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Sam
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14th Oct 12 at 22:17   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

From memory there are about 3 holes, the biggest one is about 6 x 3 inches in size and about 2cm deep.

I only have the one bag of Thistle multi finish plaster (only doing a small area in an under stairs cupboard), is it OK to use this for filling the holes?

Yeah I've got some PVA glue for the wall that requires filling, but won't be using it on the new plasterboard.

[Edited on 14-10-2012 by Sam]
thomson
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15th Oct 12 at 07:00   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

i would just brush down the holes and pva them. then rough them out with multi finsh.

and push the plaster in tight with youre trowel,
so the patch is flush. dont leave it smooth brush it with a wet brush so its rough.
its just for ths next coat to hold too.

when you pva the wall dont skim it right after as the plaster slides. give it 10-15 mins. so the glues tacky.
Tom J
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15th Oct 12 at 15:59   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

if its brand new plasterboard you don't PVA. Have you got any scrim tape? (plasterers tape). you put this over any joints in the plasterboard and it will stop it cracking later.
i would fill the holes first with some plaster first, let it partially dry then you wont have problems with the fresh plaster sticking.
the most important part is getting the mix right, make it so it is kind of sloppy but it will stick to a dry trowel when turned on its side, add plaster to water not the other way around. keep adding plaster in small amounts until its thick enough. it is better to make two small mixes if its a medium sized wall as by the time you have put it on if you are a novice it will be going hard where you started putting it on. so do a mix, whack it on and get it levelish then make another mix to get your final finish and you will have more time to get it really smooth
Tom J
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15th Oct 12 at 16:00   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

obv in the holes if its bare plaster underneath you can pva them bits
thomson
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15th Oct 12 at 16:42   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

just do it in one mix. a wouldnt waste time doin one mix putting it on, mixing again and putting new stuff on. its not like it sets super quick, take it easy and dont panic.

little tip empty the bucket on a wet board so can take it off the board easyer and quicker than out a bucket with a trowel.
Tom J
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15th Oct 12 at 16:45   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

if its a big wall and not done it before will struggle to get it on in time i reckon, if its a small wall will be fine tho
AK
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16th Oct 12 at 12:16   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

why not just tape and fill the joints in the board... plasterboard is perfectly flat :S
thomson
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16th Oct 12 at 12:25   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

thats what hes goin to do, one wall is plasterboard, the other wall needs pva and holes filled before skimming it.
Sam
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17th Oct 12 at 19:58   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Done the plastering today.

I had put some filler in the really deep holes a couple of days ago. Today I put some PVA/water mix on the non plasterboard bits, scrim and beading, and then skimmed.

Plaster is still on the wall so I reckon I mixed it at the right consistency (well, it stuck to my hawk when i held it upside down!). I kinda mixed too much plaster though, so I've had to bin 2/3 of what I mixed... I need to remember that I will end up with an amount of plaster roughly double the amount of water I put in the bucket

Sam
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17th Oct 12 at 20:01   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Thanks for all your help and advice BTW folks

[Edited on 17-10-2012 by Sam]
Tom J
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17th Oct 12 at 20:47   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

always better to have too much then not enough mate well done
RichR
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Registered: 17th Oct 01
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18th Oct 12 at 08:13   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

On a connected note, all being well, I should be a qualified plasterer as of Saturday if all goes well with the second part of my assessment.
thomson
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18th Oct 12 at 15:18   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

how long you been doin it for live lee
RichR
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18th Oct 12 at 15:26   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

9 weeks; 12 week course total. City and guilds level 2 qualification, can be upgraded to a level 4 with experience after passing level 2

[Edited on 18-10-2012 by LiVe LeE]
thomson
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18th Oct 12 at 15:36   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

not long then. seven and a half years and still learning :-)
RichR
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18th Oct 12 at 15:39   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

yeah, its been good though. The two tutors have been awesome and loads of experience between them. I've done it mainly because of the post in the related threads below this.....

oh and better than any gym workout!! fucking bollocksed after every day so far - especialyl ceilings, felt like my arms were lead weights afetrwards

[Edited on 18-10-2012 by LiVe LeE]
Sam
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18th Oct 12 at 15:57   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

This is currently how I feel and I've only done a small amount of plastering yesterday

[Edited on 18-10-2012 by Sam]
RichR
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18th Oct 12 at 16:06   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

On our first week, the tutor said that you never see fat plasterers and we'd find out why!! I found out after about 2 hours
Gary
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19th Oct 12 at 09:09   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I thought you designed boats?

Sam, get some pictures up of your handy work
thomson
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19th Oct 12 at 09:11   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

you get used to it after a while tho lol,
fun when its a 8 board ceiling on your own late at night..
RichR
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19th Oct 12 at 09:15   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I've done a 6 board this week and that was fucking hard work. Happy with the results though. Got a fire place to do after this weekend, if the register plate etc. all arrives in time and that should be good practice as its got loads of intersecting angles etc.

Gary, I still do that but after I had a time served, long term, reputable plasterer do this
http://www.corsasport.co.uk/board/viewthread.php?tid=426014

I decided to take the course so I can do it myself next time. Plus the flats all need a bit of work so the cost of the course is far outweighed by the cost of all the work I have to do anyway

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