baza31
Member
Registered: 19th Apr 03
Location: yorkshire
User status: Offline
|
As above. Is there any way to be able to tell if timber is c24? I bought 30 lengths of c24 but it's not stamped clearly on any length. It says bs4978 but nowhere on it does it say c24. Bearing in mind it's third more expensive than c16 i need to know as building control will pull it indefinitely . Help appreciated
|
N16K
Member
Registered: 4th Oct 04
Location: Belfast, NI Drives: Corsa D SRi, Tuned Cooper S, B
User status: Offline
|
bs4978 is the British Standard grading. I have no 100% idea (no longer work in property) it could be C24 but more info is required. This might help http://www.catg.co.uk/CATGGradingguidelines.pdf but it may not, sorry but it is a start.
|
Dave
Member
Registered: 26th Feb 01
Location: Lancs
User status: Offline
|
Where did you buy it from? Does it clearly state C24 on the ticket?
|
baza31
Member
Registered: 19th Apr 03
Location: yorkshire
User status: Offline
|
Got it off a small builders merchant. It doesn't clearly state c24 it doesn't even say c16. Just a shitty smudged stamp but on non does it say c24. Just wondered if you could tell by looking. Cheers
|
smcGSI16V
Member
Registered: 26th May 03
Location: Farnborough Drives: Thurlby 888 CDTi No.98
User status: Offline
|
There is no way of telling unless you have a stamp. It can be visually checked by looking at the number of knots, fissures and slope of the grain etc. but unless your trained you can't.
|
Dave
Member
Registered: 26th Feb 01
Location: Lancs
User status: Offline
|
By ticket I meant receipt from the place you bought it, it should state C24 on that.
|
baza31
Member
Registered: 19th Apr 03
Location: yorkshire
User status: Offline
|
Yeh but I bought it off merchant 1 and another merchant delivered it. I called merchant 2 but i am having doubts. I still have a piece about 3m long . Where could I take it for testing. Is c24 alot stronger than normal? As c24 is what I was told to use
|
Dave
Member
Registered: 26th Feb 01
Location: Lancs
User status: Offline
|
C24 is stronger than C16 yeah.
What's the section size? Purely from the merchants I use anything over 4x2 seems to be stamped C24, C16 is usually 3x2/4x2 S4S for stud work and the like.
Unless you have an absolute cunt of a building inspector a receipt that tallies with what you have used should be enough.
|
3CorsaMeal
Member
Registered: 11th Apr 02
User status: Offline
|
All our wood has it quite clearly marked on in.
Although i notice a mix of C24 and C16 getting used. Not sure it matters too much, what is it getting used for?
|
baza31
Member
Registered: 19th Apr 03
Location: yorkshire
User status: Offline
|
a floor. length was roughly 4.2m and its 7x3 . There was a bit of bounce which worried me , ive just banged in another 50 or so 3x2 noggins which seems to have sorted it out
|
Dave
Member
Registered: 26th Feb 01
Location: Lancs
User status: Offline
|
7 inch seems a bit shallow for a 4.2 span but I'm no structural engineer. Tbh we rarely use timber for floor joists any more, it's pretty much always engineered joists now, superior to timber in almost every way.
If it's still a bit bouncy herringbone struts stiffen them up well and help to stop it twisting, the metal ones are easiest to fit.
|
3CorsaMeal
Member
Registered: 11th Apr 02
User status: Offline
|
We still do softwood ceilings. But usually oak. With the sw we use a 22mm ply on top sometimes. Or 18mm if it's 400mm centres.
|
baza31
Member
Registered: 19th Apr 03
Location: yorkshire
User status: Offline
|
To be honest I'd never do it again and should of looked into it more. What's this engineered stuff? Worst case I'll bang a steel in running underneath and box it In to stiffen it up. I can't feel much now after putting all the bits of 3x2 and 7x3 in but I think ive gone ott when other methods would have been more practical
|
