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Author car filler question
rolling rocket
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Registered: 28th Jan 08
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   18th Feb 08 at 18:56   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

when smoothing the boot and doors is fibre glass esential or can you get away with just straight filler on the bare metal
woodwardsbodyshop
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Registered: 22nd Feb 06
Location: widnes, cheshire, uk
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18th Feb 08 at 18:57   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

depends how close to flush the plates are welded tbh
RichR
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Registered: 17th Oct 01
Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
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18th Feb 08 at 18:58   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

dear god no, and by fibreglass I assume you mean that fake pink cum and candyfloss in a can? P40
rolling rocket
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18th Feb 08 at 19:00   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

yes p40
mattk
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Registered: 27th Feb 06
Location: St. Helens
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18th Feb 08 at 19:00   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Weld FTW
Hamish
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Registered: 4th Apr 05
Location: Ashtead, Surrey Drives: 100bhp Mint with Hole
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18th Feb 08 at 19:01   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by mattk
Weld FTW

filler like mad mike FTW
RichR
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Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
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18th Feb 08 at 19:03   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

p40 is not fibreglass! it is shit, you need to have a plate welded across the gap and then the slightest skim of p38 to build up the shape and smoothness. Filler alone will weigh so much and everytime you slam the boot, the metal and filler will move at different rates until it cracks.

I always like to see a welded plate followed by a single skin of real fibreglass surface tissue over the top of the plate before any filler is applied although it isn't often done
rolling rocket
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18th Feb 08 at 19:04   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

the door handles have been pop rivited over it just needs building up to be smooth
RichR
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18th Feb 08 at 19:05   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

very slight skim of P38 filelr or equivalent, dont put it all on in one go, build up the layers as thinly as possible. Would be betetr to tack weld the plate in place then grind back the welds. I'd be concerned about the plate moving with only pop rivets
woodwardsbodyshop
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Registered: 22nd Feb 06
Location: widnes, cheshire, uk
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18th Feb 08 at 19:06   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

pop rivetted? hahahahaha should be welded
rolling rocket
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18th Feb 08 at 19:08   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

thanks for the advice will spot weld the plate as well then .how much am i looking at for a 3.5 litre tin of p38
RichR
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Registered: 17th Oct 01
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18th Feb 08 at 19:14   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I wouldn't use P38, use UPOL instead unless you knwo how to make your own [I make my own using epoxy resin and hollow microspheres but I have that lying around]

Upol is better and about £25.00 would get you one of the 5litre containers
rolling rocket
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18th Feb 08 at 19:20   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by LiVe LeE
I wouldn't use P38, use UPOL instead unless you knwo how to make your own [I make my own using epoxy resin and hollow microspheres but I have that lying around]

Upol is better and about £25.00 would get you one of the 5litre containers


is this the gear http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/U-pol-Easy-One-Easy-Sanding-Bodyfiller-3-5L-Upol-U-pol_W0QQitemZ140206633703QQihZ004QQcategoryZ30923QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem
RichR
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Registered: 17th Oct 01
Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
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18th Feb 08 at 21:26   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

yeah

 
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