Tom J
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Registered: 8th Sep 03
Location: Bridgend
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Anyone had much experience of this? Going to be fitting some in my house as the external walls are freezing all the time so have problems with condensation on the walls, its an old stone house so no insulation.
I'm thinking it will be best to dot and dab it, when i get to the window reveals, would i need to chop some foam off so that the two pieces meet together with no foam showing or can you plaster over the foam? Been told for building regs i may need to put some screws through aswell incase theres a fire and the foam melts and the boards fall off, is this correct?
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Gary
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Registered: 22nd Nov 06
Location: West Yorkshire
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Could you not throw up a stud wall against the brick and use normal insulation and board over?
Would be warmer too
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thomson
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Registered: 18th Jan 11
Location: scotland
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put some pics up and al tell you what to do. but yeah cutting like 2 inches off foam off one side off the plasterboard. lets the other join in the other side. then when it comes to the plastering i would put some scrim tape up the join and stick the metal thin coat beads around the window with some plaster pushing the bead tight to the angle of plasterboards. then clean off beads with a brush. then ready to skim.
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sc0ott
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Registered: 16th Feb 09
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Whats the product name and description of the stuff youre using?
Why not use timber strapping between the plasterboard and wall? You wont need to cut anything at the reveals you put on your strapping on reveal edges and you just let it overhang the thickness of the plasterboard so that when you do fit the inside section it matches up.
I have a detail at work of how standard plasterboard is fixed but im not back until the 4th.
You could also fit 1L1 between the brick and timber strapping.
Are you putting it through for building controls approval?
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thomson
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Registered: 18th Jan 11
Location: scotland
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could do it that way and put fibreglass insulation. with foil back plasterboard. plus you will be able to screw the boards at the window reveals (ingoes). and nail the beads on.
i would think the dot and dab stuff is gyp-rok dri-wall adhesive. like shit to a blanket that stuff.
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Dave
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Registered: 26th Feb 01
Location: Lancs
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You can dot and dab foam backed boards as you would standard boards but I think building control require some sort of mechanical fixing too. I'm pretty sure it's because the foam can melt in a fire then the boards fall off and block an exit. Round the reveals you could just use standard boards, not like much heat is going to be lost there.
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Tom J
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Registered: 8th Sep 03
Location: Bridgend
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did think about the stud idea but then the foam stuff is better insulation value for thickness and plus surely i'm losing heat every time there is a batten. also this would take longer. the reveals are the main places where i have a problem so definitely need to do it there. haven't chose a product yet as there are a few makes but was looking at approx 25-30mm thick stuff (inc board) wasn't going to be putting it through for control approval
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Dave
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Registered: 26th Feb 01
Location: Lancs
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I used to work at a place that had a regular contract modernising terraced houses and they all had these boards on the external walls. We had to fix 2x1 treated slate batten with DPC on the back to the masonry (existing plaster had been hacked off), then screw the boards to that. Very time consuming. Pretty sure these were a 40mm insulation on a 12mm board.
Have you priced any up yet? I seem to remember them being very expensive, something like £25-30 a sheet and that will have been 10 years ago now.
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Tom J
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Registered: 8th Sep 03
Location: Bridgend
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seen some 8x4foot boards for £18 each, i don't need it 52mm thick.
been told i should be able to get them for £12 each if i shop around
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VegasPhil
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Registered: 16th Jan 05
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Apparently it's pretty good. I'm liking at getting some for our bedroom wall as it suffers from damp problems.
Corsa 2.0 16v Vegas - Sold
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sc0ott
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Registered: 16th Feb 09
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quote: Originally posted by Tom J
plus surely i'm losing heat every time there is a batten
How?
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Whittie
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Registered: 11th Aug 06
Location: North Wales Drives: BMW, Corsa & Fiat
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I've been doing this, this morning, due to condensation.
Put them straight on the existing wall. (Slanted ceiling).
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sc0ott
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Registered: 16th Feb 09
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What about pipes, wires etc running behind the plasterboard?
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Tom J
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Registered: 8th Sep 03
Location: Bridgend
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quote: Originally posted by Whittie
I've been doing this, this morning, due to condensation.
Put them straight on the existing wall. (Slanted ceiling).
how did you fix them
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Whittie
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Registered: 11th Aug 06
Location: North Wales Drives: BMW, Corsa & Fiat
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I'll take a picture when I get home from work, still needs plastering over.
Just hammered nails straight into the roof rafters.
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andys sxi
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Registered: 19th Jan 06
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quote: Originally posted by Whittie
I'll take a picture when I get home from work, still needs plastering over.
Just hammered nails straight into the roof rafters.
should have used screws, nails tend to give way a little and make all the joints crack in time
April 08 feature car
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sc0ott
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Registered: 16th Feb 09
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Sloping ceilings are different from masonry walls because you have the roof rafters to screw on to and any services can run within the void.
You still need to frame out masonry walls to let any services run up freely, plus you cant use normal screws or nails as the masonry will crumble and they wont fix hence why you have timber or dot dabs to fix on to.
Whittie, you mentioned condensation. Is this a wet room youre doing the work in?
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Whittie
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Registered: 11th Aug 06
Location: North Wales Drives: BMW, Corsa & Fiat
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No Scott, it was actually a bedroom, but only just put a new radiator in there, it had previously had no heating.
Andy - I ran out of screws and used a few nails as it was a Sunday and nowhere was open that sold nails.
I'll post pics up in a min, I took them this morning, remember its not about presentation as it'll be plastered over
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Whittie
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Registered: 11th Aug 06
Location: North Wales Drives: BMW, Corsa & Fiat
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Whittie
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Location: North Wales Drives: BMW, Corsa & Fiat
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Oh and if you loook at the last picture above the flower, I had a little condensation seap down. I'm hoping when it's plastered this won't happen. The room is much warmer now though.
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thomson
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Registered: 18th Jan 11
Location: scotland
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put a few more screws on the join. ment to be every 6 inches.
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sc0ott
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Registered: 16th Feb 09
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Should have put a seperate vapour barrier behind or used a foil back plasterboard which is 2 in 1
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