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Author Bodywork preperation advice - spoiler
Wrighty
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Registered: 28th Feb 04
Location: Howden
User status: Offline
22nd Mar 08 at 18:59   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Evening

Now iv only ever sprayed 'little' bits off cars now iv got a spoiler to prepare for painting and i want it to be spot on

So wondering if any bodywork people could avise me...what grade wet/dry and process to use for preparing a plastic spoiler to be primered?

Also il need to use some sealant to bond it in places, im NOT using tiger seal its too strong and the wrong colour, so also need some advice on whats a decent sealant and pref if you can get it in a silver/grey colour

thank you

Richardhhha
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Registered: 29th Sep 07
Location: Croydon, Greater London
User status: Offline
22nd Mar 08 at 20:00   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

you can get tiger seal in grey/white/black

i have only done small bits myself so i know preperation is the key to hvaing a great finnish.

are you spraying with rattle cans or a small spray gun?
Wrighty
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Registered: 28th Feb 04
Location: Howden
User status: Offline
22nd Mar 08 at 20:33   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

just prepping it myself to save the bodyshop some time, getting everything painted at once you see as car needs everything colour coding
STEvieXE
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Registered: 21st Jan 03
Location: Ballymena N.I.
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22nd Mar 08 at 20:46   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

bodyshop will prep a spoiler in about 15 mins and itll be done how they want it done. id let them do it, they prob wont charge you anything different anyhow. and if prep it and its not right then they will say nothing to do with them if it flakes off etc and you can hardly say ill prep it but then will you look over it to make sure its right lol. and speaking from experience its painters hatred people saying they want to rub things down themselves as mostly they dont do it right etc. prep is 80% percent of the paintjob, let the pro do it
Dan A
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Registered: 16th Dec 05
Location: Wakefield, West Yorkshire
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22nd Mar 08 at 22:37   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Just leave it to the pro's
davey_jack
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Registered: 28th Jan 06
Location: Horley, Surrey Drives: Clio 182
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23rd Mar 08 at 14:50   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I would do it myself personally, a bodyshop is hardly going to take as much care as you are. If you have done repairs to it then I would shape with 400 grade first, then 800, and then 1200.
I sanded all my plastics before they were painted to get rid of the texture, lazy bodyshops usually just layer loads of high build primer on them...rubbish!
STEvieXE
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Registered: 21st Jan 03
Location: Ballymena N.I.
User status: Offline
23rd Mar 08 at 18:06   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by davey_jack
I would do it myself personally, a bodyshop is hardly going to take as much care as you are. If you have done repairs to it then I would shape with 400 grade first, then 800, and then 1200.
I sanded all my plastics before they were painted to get rid of the texture, lazy bodyshops usually just layer loads of high build primer on them...rubbish!


ha ha wanker

professionals do things the professional way

shape a reapir with 400, 800 and 1200? are you having a laugh, folks like you on websites talking shit that fill peoples heads with crap.

as for the texture on the plastics. keying the plastic up with red scotch / 320 grit and high build primer is the correct way to remove the texture. rubbing the texture out will make the pastic go fluffy and hairy and be a nitemare to remove

a bodyshop is hardly going to take as much care as you? are they not professionals? is that not their trade? do they not have A quarantee?

do yourself a favour and shut up

[Edited on 23-03-2008 by STEvieXE]
Wrighty
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Registered: 28th Feb 04
Location: Howden
User status: Offline
24th Mar 08 at 18:14   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

i only wana take the paint off so its ready to prime when it goes in

 
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